Removing the whole clip is just Not A DRAMA as i see unfold here! apart from obvious radiator lower support bolts, f/bumper, obvious retaiinng bolts, air vent cables,s, inner fender splash panels, bumper end brkts, the center inner fender studs, use 1/2" socket and extension through front piller acess hole behind kick panel, the fender will be able to be eased out slightly to clear, 2 people can do it!

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

I done 3 now but always piece by piece.i had to do it that way as I was always dealing with a rust bucket.took me about a day to take it apart and a couple to put it back together always by myself and another month inbetween fixing rust.if your not going to be painting the car it will take longer.

The stud has been somewhat protected from the elements by the fender inner cover. The thing I've always had trouble is the bolt at the bottom of the fenderwell at the rear. Its hung out in the salt and sand. A lot of soaking and maybe some heat will get it off without twisting the sheet metal. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Is the stud welded to the fender?Sounds easy enough to to the kick panel off and remove the nut.I assume you have to be able to pull the fender outwards far enough to get the stud "out" far enough to remove the front end sheetmetal?The reason I asked the original question is that I need to get the Fordo out for repair and the engine has an oil leak.Rather than remove the Fordo and leave the engine in the car I would rather pull both together and work on the oil leak on an engine stand.When I pulled the assembly to rebuild the motor last time I ended up taking the grille and top latch support off because I could not get the assembly high enough to clear the front parts using a Cherry Picker.I guess if I had an overhead block+tackle it would have cleared.I am thinking its not that much more work to take the whole clip off and I can do some cleanup on the areas not accessible with the sheetmetal in place.Not in a big rush to complete the work as I plan to do it this winter.

  

at the rear of each fender, about half way down the fender itself, is a stud (from the fender) that goes through the side of the body so that a nut keeps the middle part of the fender from flexing out from the body I guess. The nut is accessed by removing the kick panel. They are kind of "hidden" to people that have never taken off a fender before or folks who have not seen a body manual. Maybe someone could help with a diagram.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Could you expand a little on the location of these "studs"?Not clear on what these are?

  

That is why guys remove the hood seperate, so that the fenders will flex, and then set the hood on for storage. Once you have taken a clip off you'll wonder why you haven't done it before if you had pulled the motor before, etc.

312T85Bird

What?

for all you guys that "remove the whole front clip"... a question here to help me out too - how do you remove the whole front clip as a unit when you got those pesky studs that go through each fender about halfway up the rear of the fender itself (just past the firewall). Is there a good way to get that stud off or is there enough wiggle room to "flex" the fender out?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

It is Cake!!!!! easier to remove the whole clip then just a fender. Biggest challenge is getting a couple of guys to help lift it off.

312T85Bird

What?

Actually I don't think it would be a killer deal if your not in a hurry,it's not gonna come off as a assembly,yor gone to have to remove hood seperately. The front bumper by it's self. But both the fenders and grill assy can be removed as a assembly,with some effort,unplug the wiring harness assy from conections along both fenders ,the bolts at bottom rear of fenders the ones at top rearof fenders and the big one at center of grill raditor assy. Think of it not as just extra work ,but the opertunity to clean all the places that you will never git at any otherway,the bottom sides of engine compartment,and the ability to paint all them spots that nobody will ever see!!! An the engine trans will be a breeze to remove.
And you must have a engine hoist to remove engine ,so it will work to do heavy lifting of grill,and fendars,if you have a place to store it till you put it back on.

hoppys1956