Y block Billy
I left a PM but never heard back. I might be interested in a carb depending on what model you have. Can you list what you have or PM back or email me
Thanks

Duane

I think I have it figured out. Going to make some tweaks this weekend but I think its a winner.

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Going with a new carb should have went with one of those summit ford styles, great results. I have Some brand new edelbrocks in the bags with all the paperwork that people tried and they ran like crap changed them to the summit ford and was a world of difference.
I'll sell the edelbrocks for $100 a piece if anybody needs one!

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Just make sure it returns to the fully closed position before attempting to start/drive to car...

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Lancer: I had a '57 Custom 300 so I am somewhat familiar with the linkage. The throttle rod from the pedal to the carburetor is possibly too long. Either shorten the existing one or fabricate a new one of proper length. You want to have fully open carb. butterflies with the accelerator pedal fully on the floor. 1. Disconnect and remove the rod. 2. Place a weight on the accelerator pedal to hold it to the floor (fully depressed). 3. Hold the carburetor throttle arm fully open. 4. Measure the center to center distance between the throttle rod hole in the carburetor arm and the pivoting hole in the accelerator pedal arm. This is the working length of the throttle rod that you need. Adjust the length of the rod that you have or fabricate a suitable new one. Back in the day, I was able to find throttle rods in the wrecking yards and simply cut and rethread as needed to fashion what I needed.

The main item you need is the bellcrank that sits on the back of the manifold on left rear side.You can see the 2 threaded holes if you look at your intake.That piece shows up from time to time on Ebay or maybe someone else here has one for sale.They are hard to come by because anyone who wants to use a 4bbl needs it to convert.

  

Yes all 56 Fairlanes were 4 bbl with dual exhaust.The correct 4 BBl linkage has the rod to carb on the left(drivers side).The linkage setup for 4bbl is entirely different than the 2bbl setup.You can try and locate the correct linkage but its hard to come by.Check Ebay for correct pieces.

  

Lance, when I purchased my 1956 Fairlane Victoria 13 years ago, it had a Ford 2-barrel carburetor on it. I suspect that someone back in the day converted it from a 4-barrel to a 2-barrel since it was common thinking at the time that the 2-barrel would give better mileage. It is my understanding that all 1956 Fairlanes were 4-barrel with dual exhaust. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Since I wanted to make the car factory correct, I purchased a teapot 4-barrel, an "A" 4-barrel intake manifold, and a 4-barrel oil bath air cleaner. All this did not work with the linkage that was with the 2-barrel. The car has a Fordomatic transmission. I don't remember what the particulars of the problem was, but I ended up purchasing the linkage from a 4-barrel Fordomatic car. After this, everything worked fine.

Are there any stops that you can adjust to allow for more travel? Are there any other holes in the linkage that will allow more travel?


Lawrenceville, GA

Yes, I have a spacer, carb opens up great. Its a B manifold. It just wont open up all the way based on the current design of the factory linkage. I wonder if the four barrel cars had different linkage or was the two and four the same? So how did you guys fix your linkage to open the carb all the way up?

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