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Distributor condensers

Posted By joey 17 Years Ago
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joey
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Hi, just thought I’d share this with you guys and see if anyone has had similar experiences…

My 312 (.030 over with ported ECZ-C heads, Ford ECZ 9425B intake, mild cam (270/.423"), B/G 575 speed demon carb) has a dual-point YH Mallory distributor I bought new from Concours Parts a couple years back: the overall dwell is at 32, the advance adjustment plate is set for maximum allowable advance of 26 degrees. I bought the advance spring kit from Mallory and after much testing I set the advance curve spring combination (1 purple + 1 pink if you’re familiar with these) for quick advance response. OK, fine. The car runs good, however the points of course need regular adjustment, and overall the car is still kind of lopey as it accelerates off the low end.

The other thing is, this distributor has gone through several condensers pretty quick, which isn’t that big a deal in itself unless you get stuck on the side of the road like I did a while ago and not know exactly why. In trying to isolate the problem I replaced the still-pretty-new condenser that was on the distrib with a new-in-box replacement Mallory condenser, figuring I was safe and could then move on to check other issues. Wrong. Little did I realize BOTH new Mallory condensers were defective out of the box. Car would run for a while, sometimes ten minutes, sometimes an hour, then die. Sometimes it would restart after a few minutes, sometimes not. I had a heck of a time trying to identify the source and was getting frustrated. When, as a shot in the dark, I slapped on an old Echlin condenser that I had lying around from a Ford truck, the car immediately ran reliably.

I went on the Internet and found I wasn’t alone. I read where a couple years back Mallory had a problem with their condenser supplier and reportedly about 25,000 condensers were delivered defective, but as they had both been installed on new units and also been sold as replacement parts, Mallory couldn’t pull the faulty condensers off the market. They didn’t publicize this, but the place I talked to agreed to send replacement condensers rather than hear you make a stink. Still, you don't know if they are reliable.

Not only that, but I also read that in general today’s Mallory distributors are known to eat up condensers regularly--whether they’re Mallory condensers or other types. Heat can be one culprit, and I guess another can be the mixing and matching people do when they combine aftermarket or performance distributors, coils, etc. Because my wife drives this car sometimes, I want to head off the problems before they happen, especially if it’s only a $6 condenser we’re talking about.

So…I plan to avoid using the modern Mallory condensors. I do have an old "brass" Mallory condenser from a used Mallory YC distributor from about 1960. These are somewhat rare and I have read where some people feel they are much more dependable. Is this a good idea? I'd have to make up a new bracket. But is it really important, as I have read, to match condenser/distrib in terms of manufacturer? Or, I could just run down to the store and buy a couple of Echlin or Accel condensers. Small issues I realize, but I wanted to know if anyone here has any insight.

I am also thinking of mounting the condenser somewhere else to try to avoid heat. Will the resulting longer pigtail affect the electrical value of the condenser?

Or, should I consider Pertronix? That's supposed to deliver better performance, but I have heard both success stories and horror stories. What have your experiences been? I'd like to know.

Thanks, Joe

56-Vicky
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Just my 2 cents... I've been running the Pertronix with their coil for about 5 years and never had any issues.  Very simple to install and eliminates all the problems you've described with points and condensors.

Good Luck!!

Andrew w00t 56-Vicky




yblock32deuce
Posted 17 Years Ago
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just my 2 cents also, i am also running a very ole mallory dual point dist. with my 296, clay smith cam , crower 6 carbs in my 32 high boy. tried points for a while, then switched over to a petronix module in this old dist. and havent had a moments trouble since. starts better, burns cleaner. think you would like it. as i say just my 2 centsWink
pintoplumber
Posted 17 Years Ago
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My pertronics failed, didn't leave me on the road though. Failed in the driveway. Used their coil too. Still do, went back to points. I thought maybe too much heat under the hood with headers? They made a 6 volt negative ground for me. Since then I went to 57 and up distributor. Don't know if they'd make something in 6 volt for that.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA
pegleg
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Dennis,

 Talk to John Mummert and do the Duraspark conversion, you'll need to be 12 volts. Then, when you can, grab an MSD 6 or 6AL multispark, or Crane, same idea. I promise you, you'll never go back to a coventional points system.  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


Daniel Jessup
Posted 17 Years Ago
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I run an ACCEL #2020 electronic conversion kit in my 57+ distributor. It is similar to pertronix I believe, but I did not have to pay the pertronix price, and I have a great ignition - never any trouble - using stock 12 volt coil (with inline resistor) on my 55, 292.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


PWH42
Posted 17 Years Ago
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I'm running what is the forerunner of todays Pertronix conversion.It was known 20 years ago as a Perlux.I've used it on 4 different vehicles for a total of over 100,000 miles and it still works perfectly.Right now it's on a 56 292 with a  12Vstock coil and no resistor.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

GREENBIRD56
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Seems to me ......that the condensor (which is basically a rugged duty capacitor) is intended to serve as a protection to the points when they open the loaded circuit. The local voltage out of the coil turns has an inductive kick too and will fry the contacts without one (acts just like a "one shot" per cycle spark plug). The dielectric strength of the capacitor (old ones are little flat coils insulated with paper) has to do mostly with materials and construction. They can last nearly forever when the combo is right. Mallory might have the wrong design or the wrong vendor for this part.

In conducting my forays into the yunk yard for parts - I found that Ford went back to using the "condensor" capacitors on the "TFI" systems. It is in the same position as the old point set-ups - ground side of the coil. When I tested my theory by lifting this cap lead on a rented Taurus there wasn't any change in radio noise. So I've come to the conclusion that it also prevents this old inductive kick problem in the primary from applying undue strain on the power transistor of the newer system (used to open and close the ground instead of points).

So I have installed them on the Duraspark II systems I've built as a hedge against mysteriously (and suddenly) "dead" control boxes. Don't know how much good they are doing - but I run a hotter coil than Ford intended with their box.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona



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