I now I asked this question several years ago but a search has not brought it back up for me. I have a 272 with manual transmission I would like to lift and put back in the truck. It will go in and out half a dozen times before Im finished. I have always removed two of the intake manifold bolts  and hooked a chain to some grade 8 bolts (longer) and then lifted the motor in or out. I would like to make a couple brackets that hook to the intake thru the carb holes on the intake, but they are pretty small bolts. If I remember correctly, a lot of pre made brackets for removing engines bolt to the intake where the carb mounts (using four bolts). It just seems those bolts are a little on the small side to lift the entire engine and transmission using an engine hoist. I would appreciate some advise once again.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Using all four bolts seems to work. Make sure all of the manifold to head bolts are in and tight. I usually pull the tranny first, it's easier to wiggle the engine out without damage to the vehicle.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Hooking a chain in the center of the carb flange will leave the engine/trans assembly badly off balance, the trans end will be heavy.  It works well if the engine alone is lifted.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Darrell;My personal preference is to use an engine leveler at the end of your engine hoist chain. I bought a lifting plate, but never used it.  If you are going to taking the engine in and out quite a bit, the leveler lets you position the motor (and tranny) at any angle you want. The leveler uses 4 mounting points, 2 up front and 2 at the back of the intake. I think it's an investment well worth the money.Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

use grade 8bolts and make sure they go in 1.5 tmes ther length and ar tight, then bolt a bracket on the bell housing to block on 1 of the upper bolts and get your comalong and a metal cable. this way you can tip the engine as you go in and out,keep the job cheap a you will need the cash down the road, with a truck you have more room than a car. 

Using the four 5/16 bolts and a lift plate is safe.  If you really want the job to go easy, there is a lift plate that has a tilt mechanism built in that makes the job much easier.  If you are going in and out a few time with the trans, this unit is perfect.  A little on the pricey side, but the time and aggravation it saves is worth it.I just helped a guy that is installing a AOD behind a yblock in his early Bird with the trans attached and it had to go in and  out a few times for fitting.  He had one of these units and boy did it make it easier.Those tilt devices on chains is like a model T ford compared to this unit.Problem is, I can't remember the manufacturer.  Try Google, engine tilt device, or something like that.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I've used a tool like this many times, welding in motor mounts, new trans cross members, etc. If you doing it more than once, it's more than worth it. I think mine came from Eastwood, but this was the best picture.

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/SUN-5208.html

Even better with an air wrench on the lead screw.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

That's the one I'm using.Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Lots of good options. Thanks for all the good advise.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

The one I mentioned is Mac's Pivot Engine Lift #701001.  Amazon's got then listed.  Great tool.  Once you used it, you'll never use  those chain ones again


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ