Thanks Cliff, there were a couple of other minor things I discovered, wooden spoon type things if you know what I mean. All I need now is the car to put the engine in. It's going into a 57 skyliner which I currently have stripped down to repair rust, suspension, steering, paint etc. I may even share a youtube clip in the near future.Cheers Ken

you did well,if we are truthfull we have  had some isues, you should be complimented in finding a old meckanic and folowed his advise.i am sure your problems are rectified and have fun driveing . cliff

Thanks for the advice guys, I have ordered new gaskets and was almost ready to take the manifold and head in for planing, BUT then I spoke to a local retired mechanic and explained what had happened and the outcome is that I bought some copper spray for the head gasket and some anaerobic gasket sealer for the intake manifold. I cleaned up the head gasket with petrol and let it dry, I also cleaned up the surface on the block and head. I thoroughly cleaned the bolt holes, sprayed the copper (many coats) onto both sides of the head gasket. 

oil in thread holes could be part of the issue,they do not go threw to water,unless 1 does not get all the oil out. that could cause a crack. get a new gasket, surface the head, spray high tack on the gasket when cleand,run a botom tap down all the threads,things will then be good. the last 2 i did threads had lots of crap towards the bottom which will efect the torque. also lube the threads and under side of capscrew head. torque values ar when every thing is new. if you replace the capscrews be sure they are grade 8 cat have the right lengthe for end 1s, but had to trim the center 3 as well as the short 1s.good luck

Yes I must confess I am a novice on the Y block, but have done a few head gaskets on jap motors with no issues, but I did check things. However, I now have the left side head off and realised that this was the side that had been resleeved on number 7 (i did say number 2 previously, my bad) and this side has been planed. Should I have applied anything to this fresh surface?  I measured the head bolt lengths and they are correct (long = 4.32inch, the 3 short ones = 4.1inch) but I think I will replace these with new ones. I put a straight edge across the head and it seems OK to me, can barely slide a piece of paper under it. and the straight edge is perfect on the deck of the block. I will take the head down to the local engine shop to double check it. There was oil in the threaded holes of both head bolts at each end, so it's possible that this is a cause, although I did clean these before assembly.

Sounds like to me, right or wrong kenny, you have little expeirence in engine building and i would suggest get some help reassembling top end. Assembly is important to precheck, recheck then assemble components then recheck again!


  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

I  reckon I would check the heads and the block deck with a straightedge and feeler gauge.the Fel-pro composition head gaskets will put up with a bit more out of flat than the steel shim gaskets but about .005" is all you can tolerate in any case.As far as the fuel leak around the intake I wonder if the intake is warped(does happen) or if the heads have been surfaced before and the intake doesnt fit now?

Thanks Ted, I'm using Felpro composition gaskets. I will check the clearance as you say, that's a good point before I pull anything apart.

His comment was that they were Ok, so I took his word for it.I do trust him, he has a good reputation.

You said the head guy checked the heads but didn't machine them.How did he check them?


Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod