I've just got my 292 back together after 18 months. No.2  was resleeved and a light hone for the rest. 3 new pistons and new rings for all. Cam was reground. new water pump, oil pump and fuel pump. Original 2 bbl carb rebuilt, put a modified electronic  distributor from a windsor and new coil. Heads were crack tested and were OK. Block was hot tanked and crack tested OK. Used original rocker shafts and arms but had them thoroughly cleaned first. The motor had been seized and sitting for about 7 or eight years.

retorqu the heads,are you sure the right bolts and did you clean the threads in the block. take them out 1 at a time and use a moly based lube on the threads. then retorque at 5lbs over spec. if you used moley past on cam when you assembled it will be. ok. big issues is to have the engine run correctly on initial start- up. damage happens when some are firing and others you have fuel washing the cylinders down. with stock springs new cam and new lifters, proper initial lube 10.30 oil cams do not need much of a breaking. blocks have plenty of oil flying around(rods ar drilled with squirt holes) so with light oil  not much mor 1 can do. just my opinion.

Thanks, I'll be checking it tonight. I'm trying to be calm and philosophical about it.

3500 rpms is on the extreme side for engine rpm during cam break-in. 2000-2500 rpms is a better rpm range to target for.  While most camshaft break-in periods are twenty minutes, if there is a cam lobe/tappet failure happening, that starts right away.  It may take twenty minutes for enough wear to take place to pick up on that but in many instances, 5-10 minutes of running will indicate if the cam has started to go away.  In your case, simply check the valve lash before restarting.  If there are no large discrepancies, then you are likely good to go.

As far as the leaky head gaskets, then insure that the two ‘long’ bolts for each head went into the top row at the ends.  You didn’t mention if the head gaskets were steel shim or composition.  I’ve reused composition gaskets before if they did not ‘tear’ upon disassembly and simply sprayed them with WD-40 before reusing.  Sealer is preferred on both sides of steel shim gaskets while composition gaskets typically do not require any sealer.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

You said the head guy checked the heads but didn't machine them.How did he check them?


Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod

His comment was that they were Ok, so I took his word for it.I do trust him, he has a good reputation.

Thanks Ted, I'm using Felpro composition gaskets. I will check the clearance as you say, that's a good point before I pull anything apart.

I  reckon I would check the heads and the block deck with a straightedge and feeler gauge.the Fel-pro composition head gaskets will put up with a bit more out of flat than the steel shim gaskets but about .005" is all you can tolerate in any case.As far as the fuel leak around the intake I wonder if the intake is warped(does happen) or if the heads have been surfaced before and the intake doesnt fit now?

Sounds like to me, right or wrong kenny, you have little expeirence in engine building and i would suggest get some help reassembling top end. Assembly is important to precheck, recheck then assemble components then recheck again!


  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Yes I must confess I am a novice on the Y block, but have done a few head gaskets on jap motors with no issues, but I did check things. However, I now have the left side head off and realised that this was the side that had been resleeved on number 7 (i did say number 2 previously, my bad) and this side has been planed. Should I have applied anything to this fresh surface?  I measured the head bolt lengths and they are correct (long = 4.32inch, the 3 short ones = 4.1inch) but I think I will replace these with new ones. I put a straight edge across the head and it seems OK to me, can barely slide a piece of paper under it. and the straight edge is perfect on the deck of the block. I will take the head down to the local engine shop to double check it. There was oil in the threaded holes of both head bolts at each end, so it's possible that this is a cause, although I did clean these before assembly.