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Getting oil to right side of block

Posted By RayCarter18 11 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane
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You can do it that way.  Be sure to put some plastic or rubber sleeves on the rod bolts to keep from nicking the crank, especially when  putting it back in.



John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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RayCarter18
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Thanks for all the advice. I hate to have to tear apart the engine but it the only thing to do. Can I disconnect the piston rods and push the piston to the top of the cylinder and pull the crank and than the cam. Will that give me enough room or am I gonna have to pull the pistons all the way out of the cylinder?
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Cliff, you've shared a repair method that would be employed in a reputable garage.

Even if the engine has not been installed in the vehicle, the time to tear down an engine to remedy an improperly installed cam bearing for a commercial shop is prohibitive.

Hobbyists do things that commercial shops can't afford to do.  As a hobbyist, I would tear the whole engine back apart to make it right.  Having worked in a commercial shop, I've been guided by others to successfully perform 'make-do' procedures like what you have step-by-step described.

Actually, after reading your description, I think I've seen it suggested somewhere else, but I'd forgotten it because I haven't done it myself.  Your procedural description was more complete though, too!  Thanks for sharing.  Smile

Regards, 


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Posted 11 Years Ago
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I would buy a long drill bit1/8th and drill the outer shell with cam in place,then fish out the cuttings with a magnet and the drill bit.when you have cleaned the metal out ,put the clospegs on all the lifters(be sure push rods are all out.then move the camout2/3rds of the cam bearing. finish the drilling very cairfulley,with heavey greas on drill bit as babet wont catch  re a magnet.with patience you will make it .soon as you get finished with the drill slide cam back and prelube catching the oil with a rag to be sure hole is clean. ihave drilled both holes when cam bearings first installed as the so called universal bearings did not linup frome the start. only other choice is to remove engine and tear it down. good luck
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Forgot to mention without the luxury of a lathe I have groved the outside of the cam bearings with a small round file, chainsaw file etc.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

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Tried inserting picture but I get a message that could not find instance of the editor??? whats that all about. Anyway, I install the center cam bearing in a tool and put it in my lathe and grove the outside of the cam bearing before installation.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

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RayCarter18 (8/24/2014)
Also if it was installed wrong how is it getting oil to the left side?
 

Ray, The center cam bearing has three holes in it as does the block,  oil feed and to right and left banks. If the bearing is not installed correctly one (or more) of the holes can be covered up. Only way to confirm (after checking everything else first) is to yank the cam, which means pulling the engine, etc...



BOB


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To follow-up on what Ted said, while you have the camshaft out, check the depth of the center groove, Ray.  Just a few weeks ago one of our members asked the following question...

steinauge (8/6/2014)
I am building a fresh 292 for my 55 Ford sedan.  The engine is lightly modified-zero decked, pocket ported, etc.  I am using an Isky cam.  When inspecting the new cam I noted that the oil groove in the center journal was only about .010" deep.  I checked 2 stock cams and got .028" & .030" depth.  I stuck the cam in the lathe and made the groove stock depth.  Question is, I wonder if I needed to do that?  I used this same type Isky cam in a 312 some 40 years ago and didn't do that.  I don't recall any top end oiling issues.  Anyone have any ideas?

The answer to his question was, "You did the right thing!"
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From John Mummerts website:

NEW CAMS: ground on NEW cores 

NOTE: All new cam cores for Y-Blocks are manufactured with insufficient oil groove in center journal resulting in reduced oil flow to rocker arms.

WE CORRECT THIS PROBLEM ON ALL NEW CAMS WE SELL!!!



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Ted
Posted 11 Years Ago
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When there is a 'soft' center cam bearing problem, the right bank does starve for oil first.  Soft babbit cam bearings typically go at least 200 miles before pinching off the oil supply to the right bank first.  If the right bank did not oil from the git go, then the other possibility is that the cam bearing was not clocked correctly in the center location meaning only two of the holes in the cam bearing are aligned with the holes in the block.


In your case where you get no oil from the deck with the head off, I suspect the cam bearing is clocked wrong.  There’s still a chance that the hole in the block itself was not cleaned adequately which can be verified by simply taking a drill bit or long rod pushed into the oil hole and seeing if ‘crud’comes back out.  If this is the case, then the possibility is there that this stoppage can be cleared out without completely disassembling the engine.


For those of you that are in the process of doing a Y rebuild, there are some different modifications that help to insure adequate oil flow to both banks.  Any of the following will work.

  1. Machine the cam journal groove deeper.  This mod does require that all three holes in the cam bearing still align with the holes in the block.
  2. Use an outer grooved cam bearing set.  Schumann sells these.
  3. Machine the center cam hole in the block so that all three holes are interconnected.  The stock cam bearing simply presses in place over this modifation.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


RayCarter18
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Yeah I am spinning it the right way like I said earlier in the post I am getting 40psi but it is only coming out the left side.


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