I'm replacing the oil pan gasket this weekend on my 292. It has always leaked at the back by the rear main seal retainer area, and I'm pretty sure it's not the rear main seal.
The sealing surface of the retainer looks flat and flush with the block rail, and the pan holes aren't badly dimpled.
I'm looking for some advice on gasket sealer use. What kind seems to work well and so forth. I have a Best Gasket composite gasket on hand. Any advice is welcome!
Steve

The threads in the aluminum rear main seal retainer need thread sealant.  A very thin coat of black rtv should ensure a good seal for the gasket.  That is a thin coat, not a thick bead - put a little on your gloved finger and spread it on with your finger.
In case you are not aware, thread sealant and RTV are not the same thing.  Do not use RTV for thread sealant.



Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks for the reply.  So you suggest spreading a thin coat of rtv on the block surfaces and the pan rail with a gasket in between?
Then once the pan is up there held lightly by a few bolts,apply the thread sealer to the studs on the retainer?

Re the retainer studs, the sealer should go on the end of the stud that threads into the retainer to prevent oil from seeping past the threads.

I just noticed that you said the pan rail isn't badly dimpled.  Make sure it is not at all dimpled.  And when you tighten the bolts, do not use a torque wrench.  Just pay attention to the gasket while you tighten them.  You want to make sure it is being compressed but not squished out.



Lawrenceville, GA

I should be able to back the studs out then I guess if they wen't sealed before....

Charlie is talking specifically about the two rear oil pan bolts that are centered above the rear seal retainer.  The two threaded holes at this location are open to the crankcase if the factory studs have been removed.  If the original threaded studs are now gone or have been removed and replaced without sealer, then use some kind of thread sealer on the threads of the stud/bolts that go back into those two holes.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I don't know if mine are sealed or not. I guess they should just back out of there if I can get two nuts jammed on them. Then I can seal them.
This job has now expanded to replacing my gear type oil pump with the later gerotor style. I found one on Ebay. I've been considering this change over for quite a while since my gear pump is noisy as heck when cold.

While I'm thinking about this...which is less awkward; fitting the oil pump first then jockeying the pick-up tube into the pump while the pan goes up or installing the pan first with the pick-up loosely installed then fitting the pump?
Can the pump drive and pick-up tube be maneuvered that way?  If so. seems like it would e easier to put the pan on first....

 

On the engine stand, my preference is to mount the oil pump to the block and then jockey the oil pan in place while the oil tube is loose at the pan.  In the car, I simply loosen both the oil tube nut at the oil pan and the back off the flange nut at the pump and then jockey the oil pump and distributor drive around as needed to remove and reinstall the oil pump.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Right. Thanks Ted.
When I get my Ebay gerotor pump I'd like to check the tolerances.  Presumably there are maximum clearances allowed between the inner and outer rotors, the outer rotor and the body and the end float.
Do you happen to know what these tolerances are?