Thanks CK

Well I managed to get it to TDC then once I was close I found the mark.  I bought some of the timing stickers from MSD and found the closest one to the Dia and stuck it on.  Should be close enough to get me in the ball field.

Take it easy!

~Ryan

Awesome truck.
Have you checked the timing mark, to be actual TDC.
The balances can turn on itself and give a false reading.

Thanks Talkwrench, I will do that.

Im going to say power valves straight up. forget about your vacuum advance block it all off for now. You will need to find out what your jets are and the power valves are, start there . AND the standard holley power valves don't fit the 94's they are particular to the 94's.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Thanks Paul and everyone for the suggestions! 

Dick York from Dicks Hot Rod Carbs  http://dickshotrodcarbs.com/home.html  did the entire rebuild, and I just got it back last week so I have not ran much fuel threw it yet, only cruising up and down the road a few times.  I will reach out to him, he's a great guy to see what he used, but I am thinking the rebuild is spot on as I know several hot rodders that have used his stuff with only good results.   I built the car from scratch, kind of Rat Rod style (but safe with new or really quality used parts) so I have only taken baby steps as I am trying to make sure everything is functioning properly on the truck.

Here is a video of my turd wagon running for the first time up and down the road out front, but I didn't really get into it because I was testing the waters of my brakes, haha.

I have heard that most of the accelerator pumps used for 94 rebuilds are too short.  I know a guy in Connecticut that has the correct ones.  I don't know if this is your problem, just a suggestion.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

If the accel pump looks OK, check the main jets in the center carb. That can also be a lean mixture bog. It's been too long since I ran 94's, but someone here will get you in the ballpark for jet sizes.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

If you can make it work by "walking into it" slowly I would look at the accelerator pump first.If that seems to be working I would take the center carb off and find out what the rebuilder did wrong.I have seen a LOT of commercialy rebuilt carbs that didnt work very well.Also-I always thought 94-97-A3 type carbs took about 3-4 pounds of fuel pressure? Been a long time-could be wrong.

Thanks guys.  Yes I have a progressive linkage on, and the bogging happens on just the center carb.  I have to advance the throttle very slowly and sometimes it still stutters.  I am running 1.75 ~2.00 lbs of fuel pressure (These carbs do not like more than 2lbs), so I have messed with that and it had little to no effect of the issue.
 

I agree with Steinauge. You did not say if you are running progressive linkage but that is a must for a daily/cruiser.

Not that you should do this, but I would remove the outside carbs, install plates, block the the 2 fuel lines and drive the car setting up everything for center carb running just like the car was stock. The vacuum advance should come off the venturii (I'm not that familiar with a 94) and the trans off the manifold or base vacuum; once everything works good add the 2 outer carbs. Your your manifold vacuum should be in the 15+ range and smooth depending on your cam.Then install the outside carb, and progessive linkage. I built progressive linkage for 3 Rochester 4GC's to work with stock 56 Ford throttle linkage and it was a pain in the a--.

If correct the mixture screws should be all the was closed and so should the idle butterflies on the end carbs. Stock GM fifties cars (scrubs, Pontiacs, Olds) were all this way.. . . . . .Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.