If your cables are good have your starter tested.  Mine just wasn't spinning the motor over fast enough and I went down the line replacing the cables and the grounds with no luck.  I ended up getting a 6V starter and installing it on mine.  It was actually recommended to do that by the rebuilder I took it to, he said he has some that he orders with 6V windings and it spins the engines over way faster on 12V systems.  I have to agree on that.  If your engine still refuses to run but spins over better check you ignition and make sure you check your plug.  I couldn't get mine to run till I replaced the plugs and found out the old ones were gapped at almost 0.060".

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Ok I will do that. Does it matter which side the positive goes to on the silinod from the battery right now on my truck it goes from the battery to the driver side of the silinod than from the other side it goes to the starter. The neg is hooked to the starter bolt. I did notice after cranking a while the positive cables got really hot like starting to melt
The insulation cause it
Was loose at the silinod I tightened it but it still didn't
Crank any better.

Ray, I think it's time you checked all the electrical connections. Both hot and ground. Since cranking is a problem, I'd start with the big leads, bat to solenoid, solenoid to starter. Then the ground side. Any amount of rust or corrosion will generate heat, and the hotter it gets, the more resistance there is. The fact the big battery laid down, but worked fine in your truck, makes me wonder if the connections are the problem. Everything needs to be cleaned, and on the ground side, don't believe a clean connection solves it. If the battery ground goes to one spot, and a jumper goes from another to the engine, your relying on a 50 year old body to provide the ground path. Paint, rust and grease are your enemy.

I like to have a clean path (read single cable) from the battery to the bellhousing bolts, or a starter bolt. All clean, with a conductive paste on the bolts, etc.

Nest step, is the starter Itself, starting with the brushes.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Ok I changed out the fuel pump. I am pretty sure it was leaking cause there was fuel inside the timing cover housing. After that I messed with the dizzy a bit moving it around a bit trying to get it to start but no luck I completely drained my battery from
Cranking. I took the battery off my new truck with 850 cold cranking amps it cranked it a while but even it was having trouble trying to crank it over. It got to were it would not hardly turn it over. I finally put it back in my truck and my newer truck started right up like the battery was not even drained. So now I am really confused. Before I changed out the pump it took a
While
To get it started but it would eventually start. Now I can't even get it to start. I shoulda like it want to but I think it can't get enough power to the plug wires. It is getting plenty of fuel to the fuel filter right before the carb so I know it's getting fuel. Thoughts.

Yep, if you can change it out I would do it just to be safe.  Unless you are very picky like me and want the sediment bowl on a dual action pump.  But single action pumps can be picked up easily from any of the vendors or even your local auto parts.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Change the pump, it's cheap insurance.

-Gary Burnette-

Is there a way if completely
Tilling out the fuel pump. Is there a test to know if the diaphragm
Is leaking or not? This is not the original
Pump but it has been on the truck for a long time before I rebuilt it. Is it a fair
Assumption that it had dried out and I just need to replace the pump. Thoughts?

I should have thought about the fuel pump. It has happened to me a long time ago with a scrub 6.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

If the oil level is noticeably higher on the dipstick, then the fuel pump is a real consideration.  It’s not unusual for the fuel pump diaphragm to be leaking fuel to the crankcase while still supplying pressure to the carburetor so be sure to check that out.  The oil will need to be changed again if it has a significant amount of gasoline in it.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Yeah.  I would vote for the bad fuel pump.  If the fuel was getting into the engine through the carb, it would cause so much black smoke, you'd see it right away.  
If it was a little bit of fuel getting into the intake after shut-down, it wouldn't last long because the oil would still be hot.  The fuel would evaporate quickly.

The most common source of fuel in the oil  in marine gasoline (V-8/6/4 cyl) engines with engine mounted mechanical fuel pumps is via a leaking fuel pump diaphragm.  Since marine engines also have a transparent hose from the fuel pump case to the carb (air intake) , you see it right away when when you notice the engine running rich (like the choke is "stuck")

Automotive fuel pumps don't usually have the case mounted hose connection.


Cheers,

Rick




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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