I have had my 292 running a few weeks ago but it was always tough to start well once again I can't get it to start. Well I tested the coil with the ignition on to see how much voltage I am getting. I am only getting 6 volts instead of 9 like you are suppose to get. Which would be why it has trouble starting. I don't see a recterfirer so what controlled the voltage from always being 12 volt? I am
Bad on electrical so I really need help. I know a few basics and that's it

Sounds like it's cranking well now, so at least you've solved that part. Great!
Is it a stock distributor?
Is fuel getting to the carb?
I don't think there is a rectifier on these but you may have a ballast resistor by the coil which drops the voltage.
Try jumping the pos battery terminal directly to the pos coil terminal.  Make up a wire with alligator clips or something.
That will eliminate the ignition switch and all the wiring to the coil from possible voltage drops due to some bad connection somewhere.
If it still won't start, then it's back to basics: If it has a points style distributor, then check points,condenser, cap and rotor.
Coils do fail but it's pretty rare in my experience.  

Is the balast risister the little round barral shape next to the coil? I though that was the condenser I don't know if it is the original dizzy or not but it is pionts. I am getting fuel right up to the fuel filter by the carb. And a few times the engine has spit back and fuel has come up so I know it's getting fuel. I might move the dizzy around since I have not had a chance to get it timed that may be the problem it's just it the ballpark area for the #1 cylinder. What is the voltage at the coil suppose to be when it is not cranking?

Ballast resistors are a ceramic rectangular block about 2-inches long, with a terminal at either end.  They are commonly mounted on the intake by the coil, and are wired between the switched 12V source and the  pos terminal on the coil, and I believe its purpose is to extend point life by reducing the voltage.  Come to think of it, I believe that the ballast resistor, if you have one, is bypassed during cranking, so they only are in play after you release the key.

Anyway, 6V seems kinda low, and is probably lower while you are cranking.  I'm sure there is someone out there that knows the actual spec..... 
It does sound like the timing may be off.  With your jumper in place, and with a helper at the key, try rotating the distributor a little while its cranking and see if it will fire.

I'm working from memory (!?),my shop manual isn't available right now.

Under normal running, the hot wire goes from the ignition to the ballast resister to the coi + then from the coil - to the points in the dizzy. The ballast resister is usually a rectangular device 1/2" square by 2 1/2" long. There should be a round condenser inside the dizzy.

This runs the engine with reduced voltage to the coil/points to prevent arc and rapid wear at the points.

During starting, this wire is not powered. The stock ignition sw only sends power to the solenoid in the start position. On the starter solenoid, the fourth terminal, the small front facing one towards the passenger side, goes to either the output side of the ballast resistor or the coil+. This provides a full 12 volts while cranking.

Unless you have a non stock ignition switch, or this wiring in place, there's no spark when cranking. If you hook the start wire to the wrong side of the resistor, you're trying to start the engine with both the resistor drop and cranking (starter) voltage drop and you're likey to have a weak spark and hard starting.

. 3 starters? That sure shows where QC has gone.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Well I don't have the ballets resister on mine.

The round barrel-shaped thing is the noise suppressor for the radio and has no effect on the running(or not running) of the engine.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

This is what a ballast resistor looks like. If you are running the stock solenoid and ignition you should have one. Reduces voltage to prevent point burn.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

This is in a '63 F100, right?  A '63 F100 has a resistor wire, not a rectangular ceramic resistor.  If that wire is still in use, it can explain the voltage drop.  With points, it should be fine, though.  Also, if the truck is wired correctly, the resistor is bypased while cranking,

Are you getting a spark? You can check with s timing light, or best with a spark tester or by removing a wire from a plug and holding the bare end just above the surface of the exhaust manifold and observing the spark.

The shop manual has pretty good trouble shooting instructions.  Do you have a shop manual?  If not, get one.



Lawrenceville, GA

I could not find a resister wire at the parts store but I got a universal ballast resister. The problem is I have 12v before I hook it up but as soon as I hook it up I only get 8.5v and 4.5 on the other side and than it starts to smoke at the ballast why would this be?