Carl, thanks let me know how much you want for them as I might go ahead and purchase them anyways.

I was talking with my dad earlier about it as he is a retired blacksmith.  He was telling me they staked a bearing race on his '55 scrubrolet truck and when he replaced the bearing and race years later it took half a day to hammer the old race out.  I am thinking bout giving this route a try and if it doesn't work I will just go with swapping the hub out.  I have been doing some long thinking on this and I think it would be cheaper to give this a try first.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Carl has been a member and a y-block guy for a long time. He seems to have a near endless stash of parts. I've never heard a complaint about any of the parts he has sold to members here and am completely happy with everything I received from him over the years. Prices are fair and parts are good. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Only thing I have to say, really?  If you say a make other than Ford it auto corrects it in a bad childish way making fun of the name.  Really?  Is that how this forum is, childish like that cause I just noticed that and tried to correct it and I have to say if that is how the site is then I probably should just deactivate my account and stick with the other forums I use that don't act like this.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I've never used the real name of these cars on the forum but I'm not surprised they change. We have a running gag poking fun at the owners of GM stuff. God knows the y-block has been the brunt of many jokes for a lot of years. This is all basically good natured fun and not taken seriously. I'm sorry you take offense to this but I personally don't see it as anything more than a gag at the scruby scruberolet guys. You won't find a better site for y-block specific news, parts and answers to you y related questions. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

All I have to say is brand loyalty to insulting other brands reguardless if people own multiple brands or not, I have grown out of that stage almost ten years ago.  I find it very childish to be quite honest I did not know this site would basically force me to be what I view as childish by auto correcting my post in such a way that I view as childish.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I'm going back to the reason you wrote, Rusty.

The suggestions that Oldmics and Charlie Brown offered early in this thread were intended to keep you mobile.  The use of a center punch to raise the surface of the hub to secure the race from turning was resorted to on a Saturday night after normal closing hours to enable a customer to get to work on Monday.  I completely agree with Brodie55 and Ted regarding the ultimate way to appropriately resolve your problem.  You need a replacement hub, and there's nothing wrong with a used one.

With the older cars, most of them did not see the mileage use that we put most vehicle through today before they are side-lined.  Carl can likely fix you up with what you need.  In my area it's still a little early to go scrounging in the old yards.  IF you still need one come the end of April, write back.  I suspect that finding a good hub with a brake drum having plenty of metal to permit a clean-up cut is doable.   

I'd encourage you to not be put-off by the quips directed at Ford's principal competitor back-in-the day.  What you've run into is buried in the software for the web site.  It is not reflective of the caliber of the informational exchanges that have led me and others to regularly follow and actively participate here for a period of years.        


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

That's understandable.  I want a long term fix not a short term fix.  I don't want to have it put out of my mind and then down the road it starts spinning again and cause a major failiure.

Now I did do some reading and I remembered from my days in tech class for auto repair we had a instructor that used JB weld to fix a hammered rod bearing and that engine at the time I was in the class was still running and had 42,000 miles put on it since the repair.  With this in mind I did a search and I found a post on another forum pertaining to motorcycles.  The guy wanted to fix his spun bearing race on his motorcycle to sell it but he wanted it to be a good fix for safety concerns.  A guy told him he used Locktite Bearing Mount 680 formula on a spun rod bearing and it would be perfect for a bearing race.

I did a little more digging and found out that they make multiple formulas of the bearing mount compound intended for different jobs.  The 680 was intended to fill voids up to 0.015" with a min shear strength of 2,800 PSI, and had a operating temperature of -65 to 300* F.  I felt that was a little too low on the temp scale for my preference as I prefer large safety margins.  So I saw they had a high temp/high strength version in the 620 which still fills voids up to 0.015" wth a shear strength of 3,800 PSI, and a operating temperature of -65 to 450* F.  They also have one designed for repairing worn machinery parts that will fill voids up to 0.020".  I have turned many brake rotors on the brake lathe at work and I always do each pass at 0.004" and that provides a very distinct ledge.  I honestly don't believe this bearing has more than 0.015" play.  I think I will spend the extra money and get the 620 high temp bearing mount compound and give it a try.  I will also buy a replacement drum/hub assembly or two just to put up incase I run into this problem in the future.

This compound I think would be the way to go and be even better than trying to stake it alone.  Just clean the hub out real good of all grease apply the compound on the bearing race hammer it into place sit the bearing on race and install the drum assembly and snugly tighten it up to hold the race in place as well as to keep the race square to the hub.  I should be in business and with 3,800 PSI shear strength I don't think I would have to worry about it spinning again.  Probably damage the hub trying to get it out if I ever have to replace the race.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

re your hub try checking anoyher race,at tmes ther is a varianc in outer d.,if you got 1 oo1 larger and used locktight bearing mount it may work .but the centre punch idea is like a prev. post strictly sat night(hay wire) 

2721955meteor, In the back of my mind I was wondering if a slightly too small race was installed. Still required to hammer in but not tight enough to keep from spinning.  I have always seen oem vehicles from the 50s, 60s, and 70s using Timken brand bearings.  This bearing doesn't say Timken but it does say made in the USA.  I honestly don't think this is the case but I have seen strange things before in the auto industry.

I do think just as a precaution I would order a bottle of the Locktite bearing mount 620 just to have on hand for added piece of mind.  I already been waiting 3 weeks to get this done due to wrong parts being sent down to this or the correct parts but made a little different and I messed them up during installation.  I still have to call Larrys Thunderbird as the right front wheel cylinder that appeared correct is incorrect as it has a tiny bleeder screw that is angled at a 45 towards the front of the car when it should have been straight.  Just a bunch of b.s.  dealing with this kind of stuff when the items were purchased out of state.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I have been selling Loctite for over 42 years and can attest that it is a good product and it does have its applications. Just remember it will not restore the cup's interference fit that Timken originally intended. The rule of thumb being .002 per inch of cup outside diameter.