This is a good tool to determine the viscocity of an oil at a given temperature.  Very useful for comparing different oils of the same grade but you need the specs of the oil, which is usually available from the manufacturer, and usually directly on their website.  There can be quite a difference between same grade oils.

http://www.jiskoot.com/NetsiteCMS/pageid/356/Viscosity%20temp.html



Lawrenceville, GA

20w50 is not heavier than straight 30 weight.  Its a 20 weight oil with the lubricating properties like a 50 weight oil when hot.  That is what 20w50 is.  Its like 10w30 is not 30 weight oil but actually 10 weight oil with the properties of 30 weight oil.

The owners manual states to use straight 30 weight in 75 degree or higher temperatures and thinner oil in cooler climates.

As far as being high mileage, as my signature says the engine has 155,000 miles on it.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

what, 20/50 is this a high mile engine,i have owned maney yblocks never used aney thing heaveyer than 30,and only 30 as it was free. when the free ended used 10/30 with no failures. my present 57 hasun knowen miles with head rebuild and new gaskets. oil presure hot is25psi at600 idel 58psi at 2000 hot,plenty of oil going to rockers.

Thanks for all the replies and thanks for yours Carl.  I already did a repair by dimpling the bearing race mount in the hub, first I ran a finger over to see if there was any lip from wear caused by the race spinning.  There was a very faint lip but I did dimple the mount after cleaning and then wiped the mount down as well as the new race with acetone to remove all forms of oil from it and I applied green bearing mount Loctite 420, high temp high strength stuff as I wanted over kill.

By time I got it hammered into place which I did have to drive it all the way down I tried to spin the race and it wouldn't spin one bit.  I did compare the races and it appears the race I removed was a hair smaller in diameter than the Timken one I installed.  Might have been done once before in the past and the wrong race was used.  But I think I have it fixed.  I finished the brakes on it and the car stops pretty good for a car with no power brakes.  Brake light switch is a little problematic, its not leaking and its 30+ years old but it works, I just need to use some needle nose pliers and crunch the female bullet connectors down some as they fit a little loose but the brake lights work.

Only thing I am left having to do before I go on the road would be three new tires and a radiator.  Maybe buy another 5 quarts of VR1 20w50 oil and do an oil change I have been running the engine once a week and last time I checked the oil all the dried up metal particles in the head is in the oil so might be time to do that just to help clean the old engine out more.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

  Rusty  I have hubs,hubs with drums,hubs with drums and spindles so if you are interested my e mail is cl56vic@yahoo.com,the parts are used but good shape  Carl

I, like Brodie, have used Loctite products for over 40 years in my work as an electrician in power generating plants. We have repaired countless electric motorsand other bearings by using the peen method and permanent Loctite. This repair was always successful. On severe damaged casting we would slightly grind on the outside of the new bearing roughing it up with X hash marks for extra holding for the product. Good Luck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I have been selling Loctite for over 42 years and can attest that it is a good product and it does have its applications. Just remember it will not restore the cup's interference fit that Timken originally intended. The rule of thumb being .002 per inch of cup outside diameter.

2721955meteor, In the back of my mind I was wondering if a slightly too small race was installed. Still required to hammer in but not tight enough to keep from spinning.  I have always seen oem vehicles from the 50s, 60s, and 70s using Timken brand bearings.  This bearing doesn't say Timken but it does say made in the USA.  I honestly don't think this is the case but I have seen strange things before in the auto industry.

I do think just as a precaution I would order a bottle of the Locktite bearing mount 620 just to have on hand for added piece of mind.  I already been waiting 3 weeks to get this done due to wrong parts being sent down to this or the correct parts but made a little different and I messed them up during installation.  I still have to call Larrys Thunderbird as the right front wheel cylinder that appeared correct is incorrect as it has a tiny bleeder screw that is angled at a 45 towards the front of the car when it should have been straight.  Just a bunch of b.s.  dealing with this kind of stuff when the items were purchased out of state.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

re your hub try checking anoyher race,at tmes ther is a varianc in outer d.,if you got 1 oo1 larger and used locktight bearing mount it may work .but the centre punch idea is like a prev. post strictly sat night(hay wire) 

That's understandable.  I want a long term fix not a short term fix.  I don't want to have it put out of my mind and then down the road it starts spinning again and cause a major failiure.

Now I did do some reading and I remembered from my days in tech class for auto repair we had a instructor that used JB weld to fix a hammered rod bearing and that engine at the time I was in the class was still running and had 42,000 miles put on it since the repair.  With this in mind I did a search and I found a post on another forum pertaining to motorcycles.  The guy wanted to fix his spun bearing race on his motorcycle to sell it but he wanted it to be a good fix for safety concerns.  A guy told him he used Locktite Bearing Mount 680 formula on a spun rod bearing and it would be perfect for a bearing race.

I did a little more digging and found out that they make multiple formulas of the bearing mount compound intended for different jobs.  The 680 was intended to fill voids up to 0.015" with a min shear strength of 2,800 PSI, and had a operating temperature of -65 to 300* F.  I felt that was a little too low on the temp scale for my preference as I prefer large safety margins.  So I saw they had a high temp/high strength version in the 620 which still fills voids up to 0.015" wth a shear strength of 3,800 PSI, and a operating temperature of -65 to 450* F.  They also have one designed for repairing worn machinery parts that will fill voids up to 0.020".  I have turned many brake rotors on the brake lathe at work and I always do each pass at 0.004" and that provides a very distinct ledge.  I honestly don't believe this bearing has more than 0.015" play.  I think I will spend the extra money and get the 620 high temp bearing mount compound and give it a try.  I will also buy a replacement drum/hub assembly or two just to put up incase I run into this problem in the future.

This compound I think would be the way to go and be even better than trying to stake it alone.  Just clean the hub out real good of all grease apply the compound on the bearing race hammer it into place sit the bearing on race and install the drum assembly and snugly tighten it up to hold the race in place as well as to keep the race square to the hub.  I should be in business and with 3,800 PSI shear strength I don't think I would have to worry about it spinning again.  Probably damage the hub trying to get it out if I ever have to replace the race.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi