Had the same quandary with my 56 Ranchwagon 292 3spd. Elected to go 390 t85 od. I am saving the y block drive train for a future project. The ranchwagon cme with a 4.10 gear which was my biggest annoyance with the non od trans. It was really wound tight at highway speeds. I think the FE with OD and a 3.70 gear will
be really neat on the road

e Damper Doctor is another, I've never used either. When I built my 292 I bought a new one, they come from Australia and seem top quality. I think Mummert has them, I got mine from Falcon Global on Ebay.

Upon further review...

It does have a dampener. Assuming that it has slipped, anybody have recommendations for a rebuilding service? The Damper Dudes get good reviews from the Scrub crowd. Any others out there worth consideration?

A 292 has a damper.  From the front it does look like a solid pulley but there is a damping mass behind the pulley, you know what, here:


Stock dampers left and right.  You see the belt groove, then a small gap, then the damping mass, on which are the timing marks.  Notice how the gap on the rusty one is wider?  That one has probably slipped.

If your engine truly has no damper, then it could very well be a 239, which could explain the lack of power.  Though If the late model distributor fit it's probably not a 239.  It would be worthwhile to check the distributors advance curve, though it's probably not any worse than stock.  Definitely do not assume.



Lawrenceville, GA

No damper, just a steel or cast iron crank pulley. I have initial set at 10* BTDC now. I'll try a little more when I get back from my trip next week. The distributor is a Cardone reman for a '64 F100. That being the case I'm wondering if the advance springs are too heavy.

Try setting the timing at 12 degrees at idle even 14 if it starts easy and see if that helps. Make sure the damper has not slipped. The 12 degree mark should line up in the middle of one of the spokes on the damper pulley if it hasn't slipped. When the damper slips and the timing is set in a retarded position that can really make the engine lazy.


-Gary Burnette-

Can't imagine a hill in the US w a paved road my Y won't pull at highway speeds. Of course it has been "rebuilt" by Ted and has a beefed up T5 behind it.

292 block 312 crank and rods, bored .080, 317 CID, forged pistons, 113 headsMummert 284 cam. Ted didn't have his dyno when it was built but something over 300 HP.

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use 'em.

TC - Austin, Texas

For my money a mild 292 with G heads, a mild cam, and '57 intake with a single 4 barrel and headers would run with or better than a 390 unless you spent a lot of money on the 390. Just my opinion from past experience. Used to out run stock 390's with a stock cam 292 back in the day.

They sure are purdy but at that price I think I'll pass and use the money to go faster.

Kind of pricey, but they'd really work. Especially if you used the stock engine paint.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960s-ANSEN-FORD-FE-ALUMINUM-VALVE-COVERS-352-360-390-406-410-427-428-MR-GASKET-/171002506918?hash=item27d08b2ea6&vxp=mtr

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ