My '56 Bird, restored vehicle, has run strong and trouble-free for 20,000+ miles. Lately--happened 4 times now--it cuts out (really suddenly, as if someone has pulled the coil wire). Has happened hot or cold, at idle and under full load at 40 mph. When this occurs it will crank and crank, but won't restart.

Wait around for a minute or two, and it starts and runs perfect, like nothing was ever wrong.

I've cleaned the battery connections, replaced points, condenser, made sure distributor and coil wires are tight, performed visual check of other wires....just common sense stuff. I can tell you that it feels more electrical-oriented rather than fuel delivery, but that's just my opinion.

What should I check next? Ballast resistor? Any and all advice appreciated.

Hmmmm...  My thinking on this is clouded by an isolated experience that sticks in my brain.  However, this happened for me ONLY when the car was warmed up to normal operating temperature.

IF you have a spare ignition coil, try substituting it for the one currently installed.  

For a component that has no moving parts, how the two transformer windings can short out is beyond me!
I'm sure that others on here will have suggestions, too.  Let us know what you finally find, Joey.

Regards, 

NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

I had this happen on a car with points when the ground wire inside the distributor ( tiny braided wire) was loose? broken and it would run and cut out. Easy to lift the cap and check. Pete

Might also try a different coil wire.  I think my father had a similar situation and there was a break inside the wire that would alternately work, then not, then work again.  Just a thought.  Probably something else, but easy/cheap to do, and worth a try.

Yeah, this is a car with points. In fact I replaced them a couple months ago. Maybe there's something amiss in there--worth a look. Will also replace coil and coil wire, as I have spares on hand. Thanks gents.

Also check the condenser wire inside the distributor. They have been known to break but don't show it because of the braided cover. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Yes, thanks. I did change one condenser for another, and the problem continues the same..

One other thing to point out...often when this problem occurs, you turn the ignition key to start and you get no cranking, but instead hear only a single click. Return the key back and try again...it cranks like normal.

To trouble shoot this you could HOT WIRE your ignition. BUT BE CAREFUL. This by passes the neutral safety switch and the car will start in ANY GEAR not just park or neutral. Run a wire with a quick way to disconnect ( alligator clip ) from the coil + or _ depending on 12 volt positive or negative ground to the battery HOT side and eliminate the ignition switch and ballast from the ignition system. CAR IN PARK OR NEUTRAL use a remote starter to start the car. Take it for a short drive and see what happens. More info is on GOOGLE if you need it. Pete

Can't help with the starting issue, bt as Charlie told you, try another coil. Often the coils will overheat, short out and cease to function. then as they cool off they will work again. I've also had it happen to me.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart)