The problem with  using a brake in oil   in a  engine  with a  new set of lifters is  the  brake in oil is made to seat the rings  fast  The rings ware to fit the bores but the lifters ware as well!  What you want to  brake in a new cam is a Oil that has a high PSI rating on the ware protection
I haad the  same problem  with my engine, I was using  Joe Gibs  brake in oil  then I found out it is to  brake in the rings not the Cam!   The last two  engines  I built I used Pennzoil High Mileage to do the  brake in and the can was checked for ware  after 200 miles  and looked like new!

Sorry, but all cam manufactures recommend using light springs or removing the inner spring when breaking in a cam.  They also recommend using low ration rocker arms.  And this is recommend for engines with hydraulic lifters.

I also agree with not using break in oil.  Find oil with the highest zinc and phosphorus contend.  (high zddp) SL raing. 

You may also want to have your cam shaft Nitrided.

Grumpy

Break in oil?  You don't say which one?  Did you note after, whether or not U had proper oiling to the top end?.  And I can't comment on it for sure, but I wonder if 3500 rpms wasn't a bit much for an initial start up. Did you part fill the oil filter before installing? An annoying situation, hope you can solve it..


Paul

One  of the biggest reasons  people are  killing Cams during  brake in   now  as compared to 15 years ago  has little  to do with  the lack of ZDDP, It is  more to do  with the
Engine builder being uninformed as to what oil should be used  during  Brake in, People are  using a brake in oil  for running in a new cam! The off the shelf  brake in oils  have about 40, 000 pounds load ware  resistance
Research  has shown  you need a minimum of 70,000 to safly brake in a cam!  Buy a better  oil and  the cam  will  live!

Our local speed shop uses Joe Gibbs on his dyno runs on new motors.It is very high in zinc

Yes   Joe Gibbs  oil is good but You have to  make sure You use the right oil, Joe Gibbs sells about 7 different oils don't use brake in oil !

i side with jdc,if the cam had the moley based past installed at asembley, pree lubed useing 10-30 oil  of good quality. with ys be sure ther is oil to the rockers,plug the bleed lines from rockers. i have a list of oils with the presure break down and all the oils such as motorcraft ,quaker state,valviline all pass with lots to spare. do not use rotela t it is for diesel engines onley and is blended to handel low sulpher fuel used in most diesel to day.. i have info frome 2 local cam grinders that new cams for flat tappet engines have a high % of junk cores from china and ground in the us by competent grinders.part of the reason for high failure.   i will hold my breathe  when i start the 292 in my 48 merc f47 have a new ebay cam with refaced lifters. lots of moley past on lobes, pre lubed with much oil to rockes(blocked bleed offs. wont have a report till this summer,engine readey but not the 48.(ps i refased the lifters with a setup on my lathe useing a high sped grinder,finish and taper same as new.

Hi, can you post a picture of the setup you used to reface your lifters? does it have a brand name or did you fab it?

Think most of the remarks about running in cam useing lighter valve springs is misinterpted. our average rated spring pressures dont require changing during run in, changing to lighter springs is reserved to well above normal rpm and performance levels our even hotted up street engines wont see. i,ve has triple isky springed engines and just took out the inner spring to avoid overloading the surfaces during breakin, then refit.


  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

 
it is home madeand is not fast,i will be trying to make some improvements to speed the process.. basicley i made a holder for a motor frome a blower and atached a fine grinding wheel9in in d. put the lifters in the 3jaw chuck and spin the lathe in oposit direction to grinder. the tool post is adjustable to get corect angle on lifter. have some new  lifters to get corect angle and similar finish.