That's a NO unless you can cut a radius with that tool post grinder.  The lifters need a crown ground on them and the ideal crown would be on a 50-52 inch radius.   If I’m to err to one side of that spec, my own preference is to be closer to the 50” spec.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I got some great news about the engine today and I broke into my happy dance.  It was run on the dyno for 45 minutes and survived its break in this time.  We changed the valve keepers out before the run to remove a little of the valve spring load on the cam.  These will be swapped out for the original keepers that came with the Mummert heads and the engine will be run a little longer just to make sure that the internals are happy with one another.  If that works out ok, we will swap the carb out for the EFI hardware and start the tuning process on Friday.  I can hardly wait as it has only been just over a year since I pulled the engine and ordered the parts.

I'll add more fuel to the fire
I coat the lobes and lifters with Isky cam lube ( paste). I make sure the valves are adjusted correctly. I pre-lube the engine with a speed wrench and socket on the oil pump drive shaft. (I use Valvolene 30wt Non-Detergent oil with no extra additives.) I start the engine and immediately take it to 2000 RPMs watching oil pressure. I run it for 20 minutes varying the RPM by 500 or so. I shut it down and check the valve adj. Been doing it this way for years and years with no cam failures!



"FREE SAMPLE"

Hi, I have a tool post grinder (dumore) do think I can use that to do the same?

 
it is home madeand is not fast,i will be trying to make some improvements to speed the process.. basicley i made a holder for a motor frome a blower and atached a fine grinding wheel9in in d. put the lifters in the 3jaw chuck and spin the lathe in oposit direction to grinder. the tool post is adjustable to get corect angle on lifter. have some new  lifters to get corect angle and similar finish.

Think most of the remarks about running in cam useing lighter valve springs is misinterpted. our average rated spring pressures dont require changing during run in, changing to lighter springs is reserved to well above normal rpm and performance levels our even hotted up street engines wont see. i,ve has triple isky springed engines and just took out the inner spring to avoid overloading the surfaces during breakin, then refit.


  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Hi, can you post a picture of the setup you used to reface your lifters? does it have a brand name or did you fab it?

i side with jdc,if the cam had the moley based past installed at asembley, pree lubed useing 10-30 oil  of good quality. with ys be sure ther is oil to the rockers,plug the bleed lines from rockers. i have a list of oils with the presure break down and all the oils such as motorcraft ,quaker state,valviline all pass with lots to spare. do not use rotela t it is for diesel engines onley and is blended to handel low sulpher fuel used in most diesel to day.. i have info frome 2 local cam grinders that new cams for flat tappet engines have a high % of junk cores from china and ground in the us by competent grinders.part of the reason for high failure.   i will hold my breathe  when i start the 292 in my 48 merc f47 have a new ebay cam with refaced lifters. lots of moley past on lobes, pre lubed with much oil to rockes(blocked bleed offs. wont have a report till this summer,engine readey but not the 48.(ps i refased the lifters with a setup on my lathe useing a high sped grinder,finish and taper same as new.

Yes   Joe Gibbs  oil is good but You have to  make sure You use the right oil, Joe Gibbs sells about 7 different oils don't use brake in oil !

Our local speed shop uses Joe Gibbs on his dyno runs on new motors.It is very high in zinc