Glad your gen light is working now.

Well what do you know, that seems to have done the trick. I don't have a clue how those wires got swapped..

Thanks a ton for the help, I probably wouldn't have been able to figure that out no my own.

You absolutely sure? I don't want to burn anything out.

Move the yellow wire with black stripe from the Bat terminal and add it to the "A" armature terminal on regulator.

There are two connectors going to BAT one with leads going to it. One with two yellow wires, and one with a yellow and black stripe wire. The FIELD connector gas one small black wire lead going to it. The ARM has one lead with one big yellow wire.

What terminal of the regulator do you have the wire going to the gen light connected to? It should go to the "A" armature terminal on the regulator.

Wow really?!

Jeeze I wish I knew this at the time, it's hard playing catch-up as you go, that's a relief though. You're sure that feature is built into modern day constructed mechanical regulator boxes too? I'll look that up. I only ask because I think I know what you mean, on the original regulator I took a picture of below, it's those triangular pieces on top right? The modern ones don't have those or at least don't have them looking the same.
I need to find a place that will show me how to make sure the amp switch is adjusted right, I sure don't want to blow any wires/bulbs/fuses/ect.




I guess  the only problem left now is finding out how to make my GEN light turn off. Like I said, it's only on when the key is OFF. I tried looking elsewhere but all the other forums either have people that are stumped and/or use alternators and say the alternator is bad. My generator is obviously working.

Half-Dude,

Sorry 'bout the two previous "fat fingers", folks.

The charging voltage is supposed to go down with temperature increase; "temperature compensation", built into the voltage regulator via "bi-metal" contact springs (the flat, usually blue-colored ones on top), is addressed in the shop manuals.  I wish that I could "get-into" it here; but, dead-slow dial-up internet won't allow.  This keeps you from overcharging and "boiling-out" (destroying) the battery at higher engine compartment temperatures

Regards,   JLB

55 Ford Crown Victoria Steel Top

.The "normal" range for a 12 volt car is 13.7 to 14.3 so it looks like your six volt system is okay


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ