I'm curious for anyone who's done a rebuild or has done one themselves..around how much it will cost for a rebuild...nothing crazy or radical..more than likely the only thing none stock will be some .30 pistons...i doubt i need forged etc bc it's not gonna be a speed demon. are there any particualr things i should do during a rebuild...like something tney shoudl have done from teh factory? i'm shooting for good gas milage here...



and also.. what weght oil shoudl i be using?

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

I think I would have had about $2500 in it if had had done a rebuild and used much of my old stuff. But don't take my word for it. I had a lot done and its hard to separate the need from the want.

It depends largely on what you have done and the machining cost in your area. Decking, line honing, resizing rods, turning the crank, fitting the pins, boring, new guides, valve job, gaping rings, it all adds up. All of this does not have to be done. It just depends how far you want to go. A blueprint, while more expensive, will make the engine more efficient and help with your fuel economy goal. For fuel mileage you will want to get the compression into the mid to low 9s. You may want to consider forged pistons. They can be designed in such a way so that they are lighter than the stock pistons and they can be made to use thin rings. The reduced weight and friction should help economy. Rods with a smaller journal diameter will reduce friction but this starts getting into the custom machining area which can be expensive. Perhaps even a mild cam to optimize low-mid range torque. To a point, you can increase performance and economy but it relies on your ability to keep the lead out of your foot. I'm sure you can see that it can add up quick.

The oil you need to use will depend on the clearances you choose to run. For the type of build you are planning, you'll probably need something like 10w30 but discuss this with the person who does the machining.


Lawrenceville, GA

I just built a 292 for a '57 Fairlane and the final price was $3200+ (it came to 4K with one ECZ-G head core, Petronix ign. and other extras). Of course that was with a performance cam, HD pushrods, stainless valves with HP springs, and balanced. A stocker can easely run $2500+ these days.

Tim

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Depends on where you are located.  Costs a lot to ship that much iron to someone who knows what he's doing.  Joe Blow who does scrubs can do it for $2K and it might last a year or two.  Better to get done right for 2500 or so.  Even if need to add freight.  After that, Speed costs money, How fast do you want to go?

It's been mentioned often on here that we should include some general idea of where we are located.   Soooooooo, where are you?

TC

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use 'em.

TC - Austin, Texas

If I did a pure stock motor today I think I would still consider a complete balance job, for for bonus horsepower and gas milege.

Still not cheap though. You could buy a lot of gas for what machining can cost you. (make that some gas)

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Again a judgement call but my recent truck engine which was not performance rebuild was done for about $2500. This was about $1000 for complete head work (springs, retainers, SS valves, hardened seats, and surfacing).  $1000 for the short block (new pistons, rings,  boring .060, grinding the crank 010 - 010 rods crank rod and cam bearings timing chain and gears and assembly)  and maybe $500 for incidentals such as coolent, filters, oil, trany fluid, carb kit, etc etc etc.

I think you can find a good machine shop in any medium sized city but you have to look around for them and talk directly to the shop personal.  Get into the shop.  If you see them doing a lot of odd ball stuff like boat engines flatheads inline eights and the like it is pretty sure that they can handle a Y block. If they wont let you into the shop then you might not want to deal with them. The shop I used in Maryland was pretty much one guy that I got to know and he obviously knew more about Y's than I did.  Since I moved to Ky I have found at least one shop here to take an engine to when that time comes again.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

i'm in FL..The only reason i'm wanting to rebuild bc......well......#7 wasn't workin.....opened her up and found teh pushrod was disconnected...reconnected it and threw it again after the first turn..so idk if it's a cam thing, or what?? so, thinkin of findin someone to do it for me..someone who knows the y-block better...



would be better in the long run, better mpgs, etc etc...to throw in a fuelie 5.0..but..i just love the rumble so :-(



idk..again, found a longblock rebuilt from 1800 on another thread i started..just don't know if i shoudl trust them so..

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Probably not a cam thing causing the pushrod to jump off.  If it's bent, probably a stuck valve.  If it's not bent, the adjuster is probably backed off.

John in Selma, IN

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

definitley not a bent pushrod or stuck valve...i just don't know what else it could be....

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Put the pushrod back in, adjust it to spec, and have a friend turn the engine over while you watch. See if everything goes up and down like it should. Check the cup on the rocker arm for wear or chipping. If not there look at the lifter for the same. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire