First off that is nice work and thanks for the picture of the AOD mount. I have an AOD behind a 302 in a 1963 MK2 Jag and I plan on putting one in a 66 Mustang so I am somewhat familiar with the AOD. Were you able to fab everything without separating the body from the frame? The AOD is a BIG transmission so why do you feel it was a better choice than the GM R200? My experience with the AOD is that it needs a lot of aftermarket and later year (read 1989 and up) parts to perform and be reliable. And then there is the strange shift pattern. To lock in second gear you must do the low drive low shuffle or do an epoxy mod to the valve body. Just some thoughts and stuff I picked up in case somebody else needs to know. Pete

Pete,

       Couple thoughts. Lentech makes a valve body that eliminates the low to second back to low trick. You just shift it. The AOD is big, the 4R70w is about the same size, has a lower low and second gear, which means you need less converter to launch it, andd they revised the lock up clutch to the same arrangement as the GM trans. The 70 means it can handle 700 ft lbs of torque. You will have to do better clutches etc to get there though.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

At least some of the Bendsen adaptors add about two inches to the length the trany.  Since the trans tunnel and the frame X member in a T-Bird is distinctly tapered, pushing the trany back will not make the fit easier.  There are other AOD adaptor systems that would not add that much length. 

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

I bought an aod last week and I have a 200-4r in the shop.If you need me to measure them for you let me know.

      The 200-r4 is the same length as a th350.I had it in a camaro and just had to move the crossmember back six inches.

Hi Carl: I for one would like to see a comparision of the GM 200-R4 and the Ford AOD both length, width and weight. Thanks Pete

I'm In the middle of the process of installing a 700r4 in my 57 t-bird. I bought the Wilcap adapter that came with new flywheel and starter. I did have to modify the frame to make it fit right. The drivers side can be made to fit by triming the top edge back to the center web. The passengers side needs a pretty significant hump cut out to clear the valve body and pan on the GM tranny I also built a bolt in tranmission mount. That being said, it isn't rocket science if you are handy with a welder and grinder. All of the modification takes place on the top side of the frame so that from underside it all looks pretty stock. The driveshaft needs to be lengthened about 3 inches also. The transmission tunnel fits with room to spare, The stock shifter has plenty of room and I believe that the stock linkage will work with only minor work. I have the body off the frame so that is also big help. It could be a real chore to do with the body on.

Now to really raise the ire of the elite While I'm at it, tonight I am taking the grinder and cut off wheel to the center section of the cross member and when I am done I will be able to change the tranmission without removing the motor. The center of the crossmember will bolt in. All the components will hook up in their stock location. If my grandson wants it back stock someday I'll save him all the pieces 

I'll jump in with another reply. The 2004r is too short and couples too close to the mount to make the driveshaft work without some serious thought. I agree that the gear ratio of the 2004r is nicer but it was really too short to work well.

          Pete, I will try to get that for you tommorow night.The aod is on the floor.The 200-r4 is setting in the frame of my 54 f100 right now but I can pull it for you.It,s just setting there out of the way.

         I went ahead and put a buick 350 and a th350 in my 56 car.I am telling guys this that are worried about the driveshaft lenght.

        It was 126$ to get a driveshaft made with a th350/200-r4 to the 56 ford rear.(Getting a driveshaft made is no big deal)

       I still have my y-block and am thinking about going with one of the overdrives I have and put in my 54 f-100.I have a gm front clip in it and I am going to need a rear sump pan.

Here's some pics of my frame with the removable cross member. Also give you the idea of what mods are necessary to put in a 700r4 or such. Took me two evenings to get it roughed and probably take another one or two to get it polished and painted.

It fits tight. It's held in with four grade 8 bolts at each joint. when it is bolted in it is as at least as strong as original and anything will come out the bottom without pulling the motor. The rear transmission mount is a bolt in also so that can be altered if the need ever comes up. I'll take some more pics when I get it all togeather and shined up.

wow, that's cool. But way too much work for me.

Makes me wonder though if you go to this much effort why keep the original x at all just cut it all out and put in an all new box tube setup or something, so the whole thing comes loose.

ok, i'll shut up now-Anyway, looks good.

I had to do mine with the body on.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK