Park: the block is a 59-60 292 likely, but some in Mercs were 312s, & painted greenish from the factory. The 471s may be able to be milled quite a bit, to get compression up, but I'll let someone else clarify that point. Or if building a performance engine, pop up pistons could be used...

Paul

Evan: There is some confusion there. The Heads aren't truck, they are 57 car heads, and as Charlie says, very satisfactory for most applications. The block may be a Dearborn cast 272, car or truck. Take off a head and check the bore. A 272 will be about 3.625" or 3-5/8". A 292, will be 3.750. However most 272s can be bored to 292 dimensions if you wish. A check of cylinder wall thickness would be a good idea however, before having it bored.

Paul

Have hard exhaust seats installed so you can run on unleaded gas with no wories and at least have them checked out while appart.  Other than that, there's nothing you really need to do to get them up to par.  They don't care what displacement is under them, what carb is over them, or what vehicle they are in.  The G-heads are excellent for naturally aspirated applications.  A valve job, and hard exhaust seats are good ideas.  Go with the cam manufacturer's recommendation for the springs.

Here's a link to Al's Dyno Results post.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic1046-4-1.aspx? 

Lawrenceville, GA

So I just got home and checked my "truck" heads. Turns out the are ECZ-G heads. So I checked the block and found ECG-6015-C. So by what Mummert's site says, it looks like it is a 1957 truck engine. All this time I have been looking to find the heads that were already in my garage. Go figure, huh!?  However, the stuff I found on Mummerts site says that the engine I was told was a 292 looks to really be a 272. So now Im wondering if I am going to have to use the block that is still in the car.

Does anybody know what I have to do with these heads since they are for a truck engine 272 instead of a 292? The info about these heads says that the intake valve is 1.92", the compression is 8.6, 69cc, 190 H.P., and had a 2 barrel carb. Do I just need a valve job, new seats, and better springs do get these up to par for a 292 with a 4 barrel?

Park Olsen, The heads are big-valve but low compression. They are sometimes sought out for engines that have blowers.



I think that block is arguably the best of the y-block engines. The crank is probably the normal cast crank, but it's worth checking because you sometimes get mixed and matched parts when engines get rebuilt. Also, check what rods you have.



I bought a 59 B9AE engine with a C1TE head on one side with low lift rockers, and a C3TE head on the other side with 56 or 57 high lift rockers. It had been rebuilt. Rebuilt oddly.




Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Don't mean to hi-jack this thread,,but in regards to same; I recently bought a '59 PU for various parts, the heads have 5750/471 casting marks ,,,haven't pulled the covers, hoping for a nice day to wash it down some,, the block is B9AE-F, what have I got? The truck was a '59, but with a canister filter, which may have been changed, of course.   Thanks in advance

Thanks for the additional info. I just re-read my last post. I hope that didnt come off as pissy or anything. I am just trying to soak up as much knowledge on these engines as I can. I dont know anybody in my neck of the woods that has ever built a y-block. So all the info I get is from here, the H.A.M.B., and from Mummerts site. I have printed off just about everything I have found about these engines.

I am not sure if anybody on here is from the Seattle area or not. If so do you know of any machine shop in the area that is familiar with y-blocks?

I have asked at the shop we send stuff to from the dealership and they just gave me a ballpark estimate on head work of $230 plus parts for each head. Does that sound right or is that a little steep? Again, being my first engine I have ever built, Im not sure if thats an average price or not. Thanks again for all of your help on the subject.

Evan, which heads are on the 292 in the car, and which heads are on the truck engine?



The car might have the 113 heads. The truck might have the C1TE heads.



For help finding the head ID, look on www.ford-y-block.com and navigate to the head ID page.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Ok, well I apologise I guess I didn't read that in any of your post as far as having a 312 to get a Crankshaft as a donor.

Anyway, yes I've done a 312 crank in a 292 and many other on here have too. This is where I learned all about it. You'll need a machinist who understands your final goal with a ford yblock and of course a 312 crank. You can also find that info on here as to how to identify a 312 crank.

As far as heads go-what everyone said before still applies. Get the g heads if possible or wait and get the Aluminum heads soon to be released.

Any valve springs needed are relative to the Cam you choose to run with your combination.

If you do a search for "Dyno Results" in "Street" you can find what I did with the help of others.



I could not get the link to work for it direct?

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

I think there is some confusion here. I know I dont have a 312. I know that both of my engines are 292s. As for concentrating on a short block. That is done already. It is on a stand in the garage. My question about concerning a 312, was if anybody had put a 312 crankshaft into their 292. I was told that doing so would be a good way to get a little more performance out of a 292. The reason Im asking about heads is because I am trying to get all the parts together to finish building my motor.

There is no question about what car it could go in or anything. It is going into my 1959 Fairlane. Im just looking for advice on which heads people would recommend or what to use to rebuild my old ones.