I've used RTV on both, but it was difficult to get cleaned from surfaces on the next removal.  So tried Permagasket aviation sealer.  A couple days ago the pan and cover needed removal.  Getting the pan off was tough.  After beating around gently with a hammer and piece of wood, hooking a 5 lb dent remover through the oil drain hole and gently hammering the slide upward, heating the flange with heat gun, it still wouldnt budge.  So took a lite weight plastic covered dog leash cable, tied it around the oil plug, screwed the plug in and lifted with the motor lift.  The engine stand started to rise, but not the pan.  In this position again heated the flange and the pan freed.  Gasket was toast, as was the timing cover gasket after its removal.  $20 plus worth of gaskets.

So is there a better way?  What about no sealer on the pan gasket, would it leak a bunch?  What about no sealer on the timing gasket except for RTV around the water ports?

On a side note:  I found out why the intake valve was hitting the piston.  There were only 10 or 11 pins between marks .

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Mike,



I have found that using RTV or similar gasket sealant will seal ANY gasket and prevent leaks. It also allows for easy removal. (you should really never have to remove your timing cover)



I am more interested in why the timing was wrong to begin with. Did your "machinist" install and time the valve train?



(now you have me worried about mine!! )



I have turned mine and have no issues with it turning. It's been sitting for quite some time so I'm going to fog some more oil in the cyls and turn it some more so I don't have any exposed metal that could corrode.





Merry Christmas! (can we still say that ?)





Rick














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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Ive used the copper hi temp RTV on intakes, pan, valve covers and front covers and never had a hard time getting them off. Clean up was pretty easy also. My guess you were using an adhesive rather than just plain RTV. They can be mixed up if you don't look at the tube closely enough.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

OK I will go with copper RTV this next time.  Thanks Paul and Rick.  Rick, I wish the wrongly done timing set could be blamed on another person, but I did it, last year.  I remember I was having some difficulty understanding the instructions provided with the roller set.  This time JM's instructions and diagram were used and it was very simple.  But I am going to double check things with a degree wheel before the final final assembly.  It seems like I have put this motor together twice, maybe more.

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Another option is to use K&W Coppercoat sealer on the block and pan sides of the gaskets and white grease on the timing cover side of the gaskets.  This allows easier access back in while not destroying the gaskets.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Using white grease is an old trick I learned building British engines, being notoriously bad leakers, I've had very good luck with this stuff.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Tim.  I find the white grease also useful on the intake side of the intake manifold gaskets during a dyno session.  Makes it easy to change intakes without changing the gaskets out near as often.  Works good on oil pan gaskets also.  Glad you agree on the white grease as I’ve been using it for over forty years where applicable.

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ah Hah!  That was what I was looking for!  Thanks Tim and Ted.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

 

Yeah, I've used it on intakes also when I want to try different types on the same engine. When I first started working on British cars over twenty six years ago, I was overhauling a B engine and got chewed out for using weatherstrip adhesive for a sealer.  My boss, an English Fellow, made me tear the engine down and told me to start over using white grease. Makes a great sealer but a poor assembly lube, drys hard and plugs oil passages.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Aha! I wonder if that explains some rocker oiling issues?

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho