I've used RTV on both, but it was difficult to get cleaned from surfaces on the next removal.  So tried Permagasket aviation sealer.  A couple days ago the pan and cover needed removal.  Getting the pan off was tough.  After beating around gently with a hammer and piece of wood, hooking a 5 lb dent remover through the oil drain hole and gently hammering the slide upward, heating the flange with heat gun, it still wouldnt budge.  So took a lite weight plastic covered dog leash cable, tied it around the oil plug, screwed the plug in and lifted with the motor lift.  The engine stand started to rise, but not the pan.  In this position again heated the flange and the pan freed.  Gasket was toast, as was the timing cover gasket after its removal.  $20 plus worth of gaskets.

So is there a better way?  What about no sealer on the pan gasket, would it leak a bunch?  What about no sealer on the timing gasket except for RTV around the water ports?

On a side note:  I found out why the intake valve was hitting the piston.  There were only 10 or 11 pins between marks .

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.