Anyone able to help with tea pot carb list numbers for a 2 four set-up? The only numbers we can find are the ecz and  1162 2 and 1161 2 , cast along the base edge.Would these have been the proper carbs for a factory 2 four ? Any carb suggestions for an easy to install,tune ,and have fun driving set up? Tea pots don't seem to be the most user friendly.....let alone a pair of them!! A friend wants to install this on a 312 auto. 57 Meteor,mostly for looks,but wants driveability. Thanks for your ideas.    Barry     only -4 , near Winnipeg

Barry:

The '56 dual carbs have EDB-C stamped on the rear flange.  The '57 carbs have ECJ-AA and ECJ-AB, uses one of each.  The ECZ series carbs are all single carbs.  The dual carbs have some differences that improve driveability, but the singles can be made to work pretty well.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

John      Thanks for the carb info.     Barry

The 1161-2 and 1162-1 carbs are both 1956 carbs but the catalogue listings are as follows:

List 1161-2  1956 Ford & Merc, 312 engine

List 1162-1  1956 Ford & Merc, 292 engine

There’s a difference in these two carbs and without knowing exactly what that difference is, it would be best to look for another carb that will be an exact match for either of the existing carbs.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

In my old Holley book it lists the 1162-1 as fitting 1956, 8 cyl with 292 engine and std transmission and 1161-2 as replacement carb for 1161-1 fitting 312 engine with auto transmission



The few things I could see different in the parts listings between the two carbs is each has a different fast idle cam on the choke and the fuel inlet needle and seat. The 1162-1 has a 18R-30A needle and seat. The 1161-1 has a 18R-28A needle and seat. If I remember correctly the difference between the two needle and seat numbers is one is threaded in and the other has a spring to hold seat in place. Another difference between the two carbs would be the distributor check valve (ball) in the base of the carb on the std trans carb.



I have converted many carbs to threaded needle and seats as they are 24TPI this is 3/8 SAE size however the seat is larger OD than SAE bolt size. The 3/8 X 24TPI tap from a heli-coil set is the correct size to do this mod. On a disclaimer I do not know if all heli-coil manufacturers taps are the same size OD or thread depths, before doing this mod I would check that the depths are the same. I would not want someone to ruin a good carb

marv

Thanks for your help guys.    Barry

Marvh: I don't need a Holley Teapot rebuilt, but are you really conversant with these carbs? At this point in time many owners of those carbs are abandoning them, because of lack of service availability. Or can you recommend anyone to repair or rebuild them?

Paul

Marv.  Thanks for the additional info.  Knowing that the carbs are different in regards to transmission application helps.  You've obviously got some good literature regarding these carbs.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted;

You are very welcome, just my contribution to the discussion.



Paul:

Yes I have rebuilt many teapots as I was a Lincoln Mercury Meteor mechanic in the early sixties started in 62 when these cars were fairly new.

As to recommending a rebuilder I don't know as I rebuild all my own teapots. On my own car I use an ECU carb from a 56 Lincoln and drill the vacuum connection in the base of the carb for the vacuum lines same as the ECK carb is. The "A" intake manifold doesn’t have a plug fitting to use like the "B" manifold does. Dave from Victoria when doing his restorations uses a seller on ebay called vette200. I have never bought anything from that seller so cannot comment. Another person I see selling teapots is Ken Lyle from WV. I have bought stuff from Ken over the years and very good to deal with. I do not know who rebuilds for him but if Ken uses him them likely is good.



The teapot is a very easy carb to disassemble and very simple to rebuild as comparing to a Carter WCFB where you need a box of metering rods and jets, lots of special tools, tools to bend the accelerator pump linkage vs the teapot it is either hole 1 or hole 2. The carb is probably too simple that is why so many mistakes are made on them. The teapot it is only one part of a circuit. Some of the most critical areas that affect the teapot are carb secondary diaphragm, gaskets others areas that affect performance and gets blamed on the teapot are, vacuum advance,vacuum lines and dual diaphragm distributor, (I have probably missed some other areas). Any problem in any of these your vacuum advance does not work, secondary’s do not work and engine performance sucks.

Problems can be in areas other than carb itself.

Some examples of problems I have seen with these carbs is the gasket for the secondary diaphragm is installed 180 degrees out. The gasket looks correct if placed against the carb body; however if placed against the secondary diaphragm body it does not cover the vacuum gallery to the secondary diaphragm and leaves a vacuum leak. Gasket is missing under the air-cleaner bolt/nut in top of carb. Secondary diaphragm ruptured or not installed correctly to have a perfect seal. Spark valve installed loose. The vacuum line to distributor so worn out the brass fittings will not tighten the line even though the nut is tight. The carb is very tied to the distributor through the vacuum signal to the distributor. The vacuum signal is very small and any slight leak leaves no advance. Another is choke hot air tube burnt off in manifold allowing exhaust gas to coke the choke up and even get into the vacuum circuit coking the spark valve and line missing to provide clean air to the choke.



I normally set the choke butterflies over 1/2 -3/4 open. The car is in a heated garage, used in the summer and even if cold outside in the fall just pump a couple of times or darn choke stays on to long and floods if not allowed enough warm-up.



The teapot is one of the few carbs where the engine will run if flooding as the gas is pouring down the outside of the carb onto the intake manifold rather than into the engine as other carb makes usually do and will stall the engine that way before the towering inferno starts.

marv

marvh,



Interesting. The exploded diagram in the Holley 4000 manual shows the diaphragm body gasket to be symmetrical, while the holes in the carb body are not (?). No warning is noted re: reversing error. Wouldn't be the first time I have seen mistakes in FoMoCo/Holley drawings.



Also, the diagram shows/lists no gasket under the air cleaner bolt. Were you referring to the air-bleed or lock washers?



Funny, but I have the opposite experience with choke butterfly settings. If not totally closed, manifold vacuum will pull it too far open upon starting, and it will die (unless pumped furiously beforehand). Stalling/flooding usually never a problem after a few seconds running, since just blipping the throttle releases the butterfly.



My main complaint with the 4000 is leaking gaskets (if carb is left sitting empty long enough for them to dry out).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA