Darrell, Engine blocks are made by assembling casting cores made from sand and then filling the assembled cores with molten iron. Sometimes one or more of the sand cores will move slightly. Sometimes an entire bank of cylinder cores will shift left or right or front or back. When the machine that bores the cylinders does its job, the cylinders might be slightly off center so that the left cylinder wall ends up being cast thicker than the right cylinder wall. Usually it's not a problem until you try to bore the block .060 or more.



It seems like the number 4 cylinder was prone to tilting during the casting process because I've seen that cylinder casting tilted when you look through that freeze plug. I have a ECZ-C 312 block that's got that tilted cylinder and there was that C2AE block with the tilted cylinder.



There was also a discussion of sonic test of a cylinder block that was discussed on this forum, I think it was Ted Eaton who shared the results. As I recall, number 4 cylinder had a thin spot.



If you don't plan to bore the block way out, it's not something to worry about. But when you do find a good block, you can sometimes bore the block way, way out to bores in the range of 3.875 and 3.912", but you have to have a block with minimal core shift. Usually a ECZ or B9AE or maybe a good EDB block. (As you know, stock bore of a 292 is 3.750 so we're talking about boring it out .125", which is a huge amount.)



If your plans are for a stock type build, it's probably nothing to be concerned about.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

thanks Paul, will check out Johns site for more info. What is core shift.

Darrell Howard

Whitefish, MT

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

That block might be a C2AE block. John Mummert has a web page that lists a lot of technical information. www.ford-y-block.com



That engine assembly might have the good C2TE rods and a good crank. The main webs of the C2AE block will be thicker than early y-blocks. I had a C2AE block for a short while but found that the #4 cylinder had some core shift, visible through the frost plug behind the starter, so I returned it. Many builders, including Ted Eaton, look for C2 blocks to do their high performance builds.



The C1TE heads that are probably on the block are ok, especially if you zero deck the pistons, but they're not used for performance builds. If I ever rebuild a pair of C1TE heads that I have, I'll swap some 1.72" intake valves into the head.



I think it has a good distributor, too. Probably a Holley 4 bolt, 2 barrel carb.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Paul,

I have located a 292 in a 1964 ford pickup. The owner says the truck has sat idle for 25 years because of a transmission leak. He is going to get me the casting numbers off the block and the VIN number. If I can verify its a 292, what do I look for to make sure its not a 312? I offered him $200. This engine is complete to include all tin.

Darrell Howard

Whitefish, MT

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Darrell, From the sounds of it, you should be ok. I think that all the stuff you got should work on a 55 y-block, especially if it was a passenger car y-block.



I actually live on the town line between Boise and Meridian; my property line is the town line, but technically I live in Meridian not Boise.



I think the best block for building a 292 is the B9AE block, but be aware that some B9AE blocks are 312 blocks. I just bought a 312 B9AE engine block.



Let me know if you need any odd parts. I might be able to help.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

John,

I just checked and the heads are ECG-D (55 Ford). I checked the gaskets against the intake and the head by placing on the bolt holes (intake) and studs (heads). Its a perfect fit. I am hoping this means I will not have a vacum leak due to mismatched head/intake allignment. This may let me fire up the 256 with swapped out intake, and Edelbrock 500 and MSD Distributer (292 Yblock). The distributer seems to fit fine and both had the hex intermediate drive and 14 teeth on the gears. I had already changed the starter, fuel pump, and water pump thinking I had a 292 and they all worked fine when I started it up.

I then proceeded with removing a multiple wire ford alternator, intake manifold, and exhaust manifolds to swap out with new intake/carb,  distributer, ram horns, and GM 1 wire alternator. In the middle of this, I discovered I actually had a 256 instead of a 292.

Anything you see here that puts up a red flag? I will be looking for a good 292 rebuildable block and heads so if this engine gives it up, I can swap over to the 292 and have some fun with it.

On another note, what is your opinion on using stainless bolts to hold the manifolds (intake and exhaust). I understand anti sieze is necessary, but wonder if the heat will defeat the purpose of the anti sieze and justify using grade 3 or 5 bolts instead. I have this little issue with using stainless steel bolts, grinding off the heads to a flat surface, rounding the edges on the top, then polish and using to install satin black components. Just not sure areas with high heat this should be considered. Thanks again for your advise.

Hopefully, all this will help someone else.

Darrell Howard

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Darrell:

If the engine has the '54 heads, it is possible that the intake gaskets can't make up the big difference in port sizes.  If you don't have a vacuum leak, it will probably run OK, even though the mahifold ports are larger than the head ports.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Just checked the distributer removed from the 256 and it has 14 teeth on the drive  (same as MSD) and a hex intermediate drive to the oil pump. Don't know if thats original equipment in this 256, but at least appears to be compatible for the distribuer swap. I'm a little nervouse about what I may have gotten myself into by thinking I had a 292 opposed to the 256. Hoping the intake I swapped out will be ok

Darrell Howard

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Paul,

I am from Whitefish, MT. Thanks for the offer on swapping a 312 for my 256. I have another 56 Ford F-100 that has a 351 Windsor 425 Horse so  needing  another power rod is not my goal. I came across another 56 but it was way too nice to use for a parts truck so I have ended up sitting the first project aside and making the 2nd find a driver. I am fine with the 256, but dissappointed I made so many changes before I realized it was not a 292. It was running and sounds really good. To date, I have taken it apart and swapped the intake with a ECZ 9425B. I have bought an Edelbrock 500 Thunder Series carb and an MSD Electronic Distributer. I have changed out the fuel pump, clutch and throwout bearing.  I have removed the original exhaust manifolds and am adding the ramhorn exhaust manifolds.

My biggest concern is whether or not  any of these changes will be an issue when I go to fire it back up. I just wanted make these modifications and get it running again and drive it until I needed to rebuild the engine. That would allow me to return to my other truck and get it running. While I am doing that, I would still have this project as a driver and be working on making improvements.

Do you see anything I have changed that would be determential to the 256? If not, I will finish it up and maybe keep my eye out for a 292. If and when I get around to rebuilding the 256, I will be looking for a good rebuildable 292. Thanks again for your help.

Where is Meridian?

Darrell Howard

Whitefish, MT

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Your 256 can be stroked to 272 just by swapping the crankshaft. With a 292 crank it might be possible to bore it out to a full 292 engine. But you might consider selling your 256. I suspect that you might find a buyer. If you lived in my area, I would trade you a 312 block for your 256.



If your goal is power, you are better off starting with a good 292 block and going from there. I recommend finding a B9AE or similar 292 block. If your goal is just building a cool cruiser, your 256 qualifies. Get some Mercury valve covers, a ECZ-A intake and a Carter WCFB and you're good to go.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho