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uncleaud
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 13 Years Ago
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I'm trying to start start my 57 312 Thunderbird for the first time. The motor is new and right now I have it setting in the frame ready for the body to put back on. I would like to hear the motor run as it may take me another year to finish the project. If the motor runs I can push it over in the corner and get serious with the body, If it doesn't, it's easier to fix before the body goes back on. I've made a small control panel with toggle switches to control the ignition, elec fuel pump, and elec fan on radiator and guages to monitor it all. I have a hot lead going to the resistor and from there it is the stock wiring. When I break the points I get a spark but the spark at the plug is too weak to fire. I changed condensor but that didn't seem to make a difference. I know its pretty basic stuff but am I missing something with the resistor? Does that by-pass to start? Seems like my old scrub used to by pass the resistor to start. Anyway, it's late tonight, maybe I can hear it breath tomorrow.
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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
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Is the battery fully charged? Does it have a good ground? Install a jumper wire to ground and see if the spark improves. How many volts after the resistor?
Lawrenceville, GA
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LON
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Years Ago
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Make sure the starter solenoid has a good earth. It is also a good idea to run an extra earth from the motor to the chassis . I had the same problem trying to start a 272 in an "A" model Ford . Once I fixed the ground problem it fired right up . Also a little squirt of "Aerostart " in the carb helped as well . Lon
yblocksdownunder 
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Ted
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Group: Administrators
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After getting the engine fired and happy with how it runs, storing it for a year can create a new set of problems if precautions are not taken. When shutting down the engine for the last time, be sure to use some “Fogger” to lube the inside of the engine for storage. Then release tension off of the rocker arms so that the valve train is relaxed and drain any fuel that’s in the carb and related fuel systems. And be sure the engine is stored in a heated room where condensation within the engine can not form as well as cover everything extremely well to protect it from anything that happens to be floating in the air where it’s being stored. These are just a few suggestions but I’m sure there will be others.
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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uncleaud
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 13 Years Ago
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I have the hot wire running to the bottom clip on the old Thunderbird resistor, then an original wire goes from the top clip on the resistor to the bat side of the coil. When I check with my test light the light is brighter on the bottom clip than the top which is the way it should be I would assume. Does the original start circuit go through the resistor or around it, then only run on the resistor? I always thought that if there was a resistor it started on 12v and run on 6v is that right? The condensor is the other part of the equation that I'm not clear on. The condensor was an original and at least thirty years old. I replaced it with a another condensor. Don't all condensors do the same thing, they just have different brackets to fit individual distributors?
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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
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The coil does get a full 12v when starting. The resistor is easy to bypass with a jumper lead when starting. But, you say that the spark is not strong enough to fire with the resistor in place, which is how it will be operating when running so you need to figure out why. Check all of your grounds. Make sure you have a good path to ground. The distributor may not ground well through the block. Use a jumper from the ground side of the points to a good chassis ground. This will eliminate any problem there. Check the voltage before and after the resistor.
Lawrenceville, GA
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uncleaud
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 13 Years Ago
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My grounds are good. The cables are new, the block and all connections are clean. One cable goes to the starter lug, the ground cable is attached to a bell housing bolt. As nothing is drawing juice except the ignition the chassis shouldn't need grounded I don't believe. I can get around the resistor with no problems my concern was as you stated. I should get enough spark through the resistor to run the motor. If I jump past the resistor to make it run and eleminate it from the system, the worst that would happen is I might burn up some points, thats cheap enough to hear it run. Could very well be a bad resistor, In the famous words of Sherlock Holms, "Its all elementary Watson. It must of been too obvious and too late last night. Now to go after that new out of the box Holly that leaks out of every joint from a bad back float. So much for factory adjustment. I remember this being more fun when I was younger
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charliemccraney
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Another thing that caught my eye. The motor is new. So are the cam and lifters new or reground? If so, set it up so you can break it in properly. You don't want to start it up for a minute and then put it away for a year with a new cam. You'll wipe all of the assembly lube off. When you start it up a year from now the results probably won't be favorable.
Lawrenceville, GA
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uncleaud
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 13 Years Ago
Posts: 62,
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I've got Rotella oil and STP additive plus everything was put togeather with assemby lube of course. My plan is to start it up (if and when) run it up to 1000-1200 rpm, let it come up to temp and hopefully run that way for 15 20 min. without getting hot on the temporary radiator and elec fan. After it cools down I will repeat the thermal cycle at least a couple times plus probably as many time as a buddy shows up and wants to hear it run  Think that should break the cam in enough not to have any major worries. Any other suggestions are appreciated. It's the first y-block I'v built, far fromt he first motor I've built but the first y-block. Looks like it should be a pretty foregiving motor if I done my homework. I'm sure it's put togeather better than Henery did the first time
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GREENBIRD56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
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I've got this little diagram that shows the jumper from the four post starter solenoid..... 
It just uses the fourth post (hot when the solenoid is energized) to provide as high a voltage as the battery can muster - directly to the ignition coil when starting. The battery voltage "sags" when you put a big load on there - the jumper around the ballast resistor keeps the coil voltage from going so low it won't make a good spark.
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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