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more school project updates....

Posted By Dan 16 Years Ago
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Dan
Posted 16 Years Ago
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cool, interested to see how they look on the chrome covers!
Dan
Posted 16 Years Ago
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the yoke appears to have app. 1.20 o.d. and about 32 splines (quick count while laying on my back under the car...)

So can I just remove that cooler and cap the holes where the lines where bolted too? It does have a two piece torque converter (which is GREAT btw for showing students what is inside a converter and how it works!!) but it isnt aluminum???

PWH42
Posted 16 Years Ago
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That appears to be an early air-cooled transmission.If so,you don't need any kind of cooler,especially in a vehicle that is going to be as  lightweight as your roadster.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Dan:

For a short oil filter, use one for a 2000 Chrysler van with the 3.8 engine.  I think the Fram number is PH 14, though I am not pushing Fram filters.  That's what my van had, but I'm using the longer Motorcraft FL1A since there is plenty of room.  Some Y trucks had a filter adaptor that turned the filter 90 degrees, pointing toward the front.  I don't think you could point it straight down, the oil pickup tube would be in the way.  Maybe it would angle forward enough to clear the pickup tube.  It is set up for the cannister filter, but I would assume the adaptor from the block would fit and convert it to screw on filters.  If you prefer the 90 degree setup, let me know and I'll dig one out and see what it looks like.

You don't need that clumsy water to oil tranny cooler.  Does the trans have the aluminum, bolted together, finned converter?  If it does, that's what the factory cooled them with.  The add on one you have was dealer installed for HD usage.  Even if you don't have the air cooled converter, you can probably run without a cooler.  I don't have one on my Ranchero.  Others will disagree with this, and if you are more comfortable using a cooler, an aftermarket air to oil cooler is easily fitted.

Freeze plugs are available at your local parts store for less than a buck each.

The pic doesn't show the tail of the transmission.  Is it a slip yoke setup or does the yoke bolt onto the tailshaft?  If slip yoke, what is the shaft diameter and spline count?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/avatars/johnf.jpg

pcmenten
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Oil filter; yes, I saw some 90 degree adapters on eBay.



Mounting; I think I see a truck bellhousing there. I would suggest using the truck mounting scheme and lose the side-mounts. You'll end up with more room between the rails for things like exhaust systems.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Dan
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Couple pics of where we are at. What options exist for the oil filter? We have about 5 inches between the block and the frame right now. Is that going to be enough? How tall is a normal filter? Is a short one available? How about a 90 degree filter mount which would point the filter more straight down (I am thinking that may be the best option if there is such a thing)?? Second is the trans. That "auxillary cooler" do we need it? Can we run without it? Trying to free up some space and eliminate some plumbing, etc. Gonna be a real tight fit, dont know yet what we will do for a m/c pedal and mount, looks like the ears on the bellhousing are right where I was hoping to mount that. What floor shifter options exist for the ford-o/cruise-o not sure which one we have. Shifter handle itself is no problem we can adapt or make one that will look right for the car, I am concerned about the actual shift pattern, detent mechanism. Does B&M, Hurst, etc. offer a shifter for these trans??

We still need a drivers side exhaust (the broken one I have is a EDB9431B) if that makes any difference and a yoke for the tail shaft of the trans as well as freeze plugs. Going to look at a '56 F100 front end locally (we will adapt the bendix brakes to our '37-'41 spindles, have done it before and its an easly swap) as well as a corvair box we will reverse. Have some other suspension parts ordered and still need to figure out exactly how we will mount the rear end. Also need to figure out a radiator, going to look at the mid-60s mustand small block rad. as it seems alot of folks use those as the seem to fit the smaller grill shells and cool most small blocks okay?? Please bring the questions, comments, concerns, etc...

 

texasmark1
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Hey Dan,

I have a rebuild 1957 generator (12 V) and brackets that I will be glad to donate to your Y block project.  Just let me know if you are interested and I'll send it your way.  Contact me at

markbevsmith@sbcglobal.net

and let me know.

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

Dan
Posted 16 Years Ago
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I will have to look and see which one we need, we have a set of dual exhaust manifolds but one is damaged beyond repair (one of the flanges that bolt to the head is broken and the piece is long gone) we can definately repair one if it is salvageable. Thanks-
Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Dan:

Which ixhaust manifold do you need?  Does it have to be the slightly larger '57 and later one?  Do you have any welding students in case all I can find is a damaged one?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/avatars/johnf.jpg

Dan
Posted 16 Years Ago
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We are going to convert to open drive when the time comes. I am going to loose a bunch of good seniors but I have a bunch of good underclassmen coming up. I fight fires in the summer so the project will have to sit in the shop til next school year but I think we are making good progress. We do need one more carb for 3x2 setup and just a few other minor things and I think we are going to be good to go engine wise. Thanks again to everyone for the incredible genorosity!


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