Installing a Pertronic 1  in my 64 PU with a 292.   Truck still has the resistance wire under the dash feeding reduced voltage to the coil during "ignition on" and full voltage thru the starting solenoid during the "start" mode.  Pertronic instructions state they want full voltage to the red wire.   My plan was to "Y" off the ignition on wire before the pink resister wire and run this to the red wire on the Pertronic.   However, this will not power the Pertronic unit when the ignition switch is in the "start" position.     Cannot figure out how to power the Pertronic with 12 volt in the start mode and still not power the ignition coil with 12 volt in the run mode.   Anybody have a solution??

Could switch to a "real" 12 volt coil and bypass the resistor wire.   Is this the best way?  Thanks for the help.

POP

POP

Pop:

Your truck already has a bypass source of 12 volts for starting, probably from the small "I" terminal on the starter solenoid.  It connects to the "BAT" terminal at the coil.  Retain that wire, and run a non-resistor wire from the ignition switch as you propose.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

use a relay, actuate the coil on the relay with the terminal that powers the ignition coil on starts, and wire the circuit to be switched by the relay to a 12v source such as the battery.



so 1 wire from the relay to the red wire on the ignitor and another wire from the bypass you did to the ignitor

post a pic of what i am talking about







most ignition set up, minus the ignitor and relay, should be like this with a resistance wire setup, the starter solenoid I terminal is hooked up after the resistance wire, putting anything 12v/battery voltage on this circuit will always drive the coil at full power.

Bless your heart, Pop.  You are SO on the right track.  Pull your power off the start switch before your resistor wire, and run it to the Pertronix red wire.

When you turn your key to "ON" and continue to "START", both key switch terminals will be hot to battery.  You don't have to do any fancy footwork at all.  Just attach the red wire to "ON" and leave the resistor wire where it is.

That's it!  Hope this helps - Dave Dare

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I don't know about that, nothing gets power on "ON" when my key is in "Start" the relay method is how i get power to my megasquirt and electric fuel pump during cranking.

Do you have a "GEN" light?  Is it bright when you first turn the key to the "ON" position?  Does it pulse when cranking your car?  Unless Ford changed key switches, "START" is a continuation of "ON".  Certainly, there is a big voltage drop when your starter motor comes in, but your start/run ignition circuit should never be interrupted until you turn the key off.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I cannot find a circuit diagram of the ignition switch itself, my switch could be fubar and don't even know it. but doesn't suprise me if its broken, its almost 50 years old after all.

Hey everybody,

Thanks for your replies!  I assumed (yep, check the spelling) and I thought (not verey reliable for someone 66) the start and on positions were not inhterconnected in the Ford key switches.  As simpleyconnected points out, there are.  Checked mine out this AM.  Therefore no problem!!!   This forum is great!!  Thanks.

POP

POP

You weren't raising any hell, Pop.  In fact, you were on the right track the whole time.  Glad I could verify what you probably already knew (but forgot).  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected