I think the best way to do this - is with the relay. A Bosch plug-in relay to be exact (good for total of 30 amps) - using one output leg to power the coil - and one leg to power the controller (Pertronix or otherwise). Main power to the relay is from the battery post on the solenoid  - and the control voltage is the old switched lead to the ballast resistor. If you pull the relay - you can work on your outfit with the ignition on and NOT fry the Pertronix or other control unit.

An aircraft guy showed me his usual wire termination scheme and I'll recomend it to anyone - always use a crimped ring terminal - and then seal the deal with a solder dot on the ring end. Also - hunt down a source of wire with a proper underhood temp rating - not necessarily the junk you get at the corner parts houses.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Yes- The wire accompanying the Pertronix set up will be the smallest wire in the circuit- Thank you for your help- /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

1st question is, what load is on the fuse?  If it's just the red Pertronix wire (#20AWG), I wouldn't go over eight amps.  Remember, The wire needs to be big enough to supply the Pertronix; the fuse is there to protect the WIRE, not the Pertronix.  Put the fuse as close to your power source as possible.

The most important factor is getting all of your splices tight.  I'm going to start a fight here, but I never solder wires in my car (and neither do the big three).  I crimp or use screw-terminals.  Quality crimp connectors (Thomas & Betts, Panteen, Burdy, etc.) are silver plated copper.  If you don't want to bolt-and-nut a few eyelets together, you can just cut the eyelet off a big one, stick all the splice wires into one barrel, and mash it real hard with crimpers, then put a cigarette-wrap of electrical tape over the splice and you're done.  I don't use those "trailer" connectors, you know, the blue taps that you squeeze with pliers and snap the cover over...  Maybe ok for lights, but not your ignition.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Fellas- My intent is not to hijack the thread here, but- I just finished wiring in the power provision for my Pertronix, and felt this question was pertinent- I incorporated an inline fuse set up in mine and was wondering if anyone here might have some idea as to what size fuse to use. I used the wiring diagram shown in this thread, (as I bought my set up off a buddy of mine after he lost the instruction sheet). Thank you for any information... /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

You weren't raising any hell, Pop.  In fact, you were on the right track the whole time.  Glad I could verify what you probably already knew (but forgot).  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Hey everybody,

Thanks for your replies!  I assumed (yep, check the spelling) and I thought (not verey reliable for someone 66) the start and on positions were not inhterconnected in the Ford key switches.  As simpleyconnected points out, there are.  Checked mine out this AM.  Therefore no problem!!!   This forum is great!!  Thanks.

POP

POP

I cannot find a circuit diagram of the ignition switch itself, my switch could be fubar and don't even know it. but doesn't suprise me if its broken, its almost 50 years old after all.

Do you have a "GEN" light?  Is it bright when you first turn the key to the "ON" position?  Does it pulse when cranking your car?  Unless Ford changed key switches, "START" is a continuation of "ON".  Certainly, there is a big voltage drop when your starter motor comes in, but your start/run ignition circuit should never be interrupted until you turn the key off.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I don't know about that, nothing gets power on "ON" when my key is in "Start" the relay method is how i get power to my megasquirt and electric fuel pump during cranking.

Bless your heart, Pop.  You are SO on the right track.  Pull your power off the start switch before your resistor wire, and run it to the Pertronix red wire.

When you turn your key to "ON" and continue to "START", both key switch terminals will be hot to battery.  You don't have to do any fancy footwork at all.  Just attach the red wire to "ON" and leave the resistor wire where it is.

That's it!  Hope this helps - Dave Dare

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected