I've changed a bunch of my stuff over. 92 Ford truck, 88 Honda Civic, 89 Bronco II and all I ever did was take the lines loose (the ones I could get loose with out boogerin' them up) and I shot some mineral spirits through the lines and then some alcohol. Put the system back together and pumped it up to 50# (with under hood temp at 90-100 degrees) and was good to go. Have worked for years ...

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

About 10 years ago I converted a few from freeon 12 to 134 with a kit I bought at a local parts store. You have to drain the compressor oil as much as you can and add the newer oil and change the filter and evacuate the system and replenixh with the newer 134. Later on the parts store told me about a product that replaces freon 12 called freeze 12. I tried it and it worked very well.

Back in the day at the Ford Dealership that I worked for, I sometimes installed two aday. Dealer installed A/C was very popular in the 60's & early 70"s here in the south. They charged $125 labor to install a kit, so if a mechanic could knock out two aday he had a good payday for the week.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Man,you guys,thanks so much for all the knowledgeable input.That's why I hang out here all the collective wisdom and none of the drama and personality wars of some other sites.Tim,this is a little down the road,but you know my truck,and I'll always follow your advice.I sure have time over here to contemplate projects-and plot how to persuade my wife, from half way around the world.Have any of you installed an under-dash AC,either recently or "back in the day"?Would love to hear about it.Steve.

Howdy,



I wouldn't use anything that claims to be a replacement unless it's R-134.



Those replacements are absolutely Propane or Butane. If you were to EVER get a leak inside your car you could blow the the whole thing up (in your face )



Just get the switch-over kit that includes the correct oil, O-rings, and R-134 compatible flush liquid. You must flush the whole system to purge out all the old (R-12) type oil.



It would be a good idea to just replace the pump, and filter/drier in the process.



Then flush the condenser and evap with the flush kit.



After that it's easy to evacuate and recharge.





Don't use flammable Freon replacements!







Cheers,





Rick


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

also do not get any refrigerant or oil that comes with "seal conditioner" they guarantee to kill your seals over time



and yes do be careful with this stuff, or any chemical for that matter, I got used to wearing personal protection at work, every time I work on something in the garage, i always wear safety glasses and nitrite gloves, I rather look like a dork while working on stuff now then looking like a dork for the rest of your life with a missing eye. and gloves make clean up so much faster.

Hey Guys;;  Be careful with these so call drop in refrigerants.  Many have propane or butane mixed in the formula,  if you where to have a leak inside the car and light a cig or any kind of spark it could be like a bomb.  Holum is right you must change the oil to be compatible to which ever you are using.  The condenser (front of rad.) will run about 20 deg. hotter with R134, so if you are having a heating problem be careful.  My suggestion, stay  with what the car came with or have a qualified shop or person that has the licence do the change over.  I personally use R12 in my Tbird. with the condenser under the right front fender. has a electric fan on it.  PLEASE be careful using any refrig. either R134 or R12 the comes out of the can at 29deg below 0. if it hits your eye it can be shattered.  Retired owner and founder of The Air Shop, Santa Ana, Ca. Sold because of several back surgeries.  was in business 21 years.  Sorry to be sooo  long winded---  just hope this helps!!!    God Bless Ya All      Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

I have changed a couple of systems over to R134, one worked one did not. the one that worked was in my '88 Ford Ranger with the later style vane compressor the one that did not work was an old Fridgidare R6 compressor. R134 runs a lot higher head pressure than R12 and the old style piston types don't want to hold, although Glen said that the Yorks seemed to hold up OK.  Steve, if the aftermarket system is what I think it is, it will probably have a Yorks comp. on it and it may work but when it comes time let's talk maybe we can just use some "Freeze 12" it is an R12 replacement that is available for about the same price as R134.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

We just got some new M915A4 military Freightliners, they were rebuilt by the Texas National Guard rebuild site. These are new glider kits from Freightliner with 350 Cummings engines. The odd thing is that the AC ( yes for you old vets, we have AC and auto transmissions now) compressors are the old style York compressors that were used in the 60's. They are charged with 134A and everthing looks just like the old systems that had R12 back in the day. If recharging an old system, I would think that it would be a good idea to replace the dryer and all hoses, but I don't see why it wont work.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Fortunately the ester bunny will be around soon


Lawrenceville, GA