Mallory electronic ignition here. Mallory high output coil (gets rid of the resistor) Mallory cap & rotor. Summit. 1959 distributor in a '56 Ford. Works great and was a piece of cake to install.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

Thanks for the response.  I got the rebuilt 64 292 distributor on order today.  The Mustang distributor was too short when compared to the Lincoln original, so the drive gear would not have worked without changing shafts.  The 292 should only need a drive gear change and drop in.  (fingers crossed)  I'll keep ya posted.

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

I'm the wrong guy to ask about the Lincoln conversion - not something I've worked on. But if such a change is workable (a direct change of the drive gear and oil pump drive shaft) - I think you will be better served by the '64 truck 292 service distributor as a starting point.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I have a 1952 F7 (ex-firetruck) 279 Lincoln, with the governed carburetor distributor and associated headaches.  If wanting to do the duraspark install, would I be better off with a later 312 (car) distributor or the 60's version of the truck distributor mentioned above as my starting point?  I have been told the Ford Y block distributor will work in the Lincoln if I change out the drive gear to an FE gear.  I already have the later oil pump and hex drive oil pump shaft to change out the tang drive.  Thanks, Robert

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

Here is a quick shot of which is which.....

Early Autolite version has concentric rings on the shaft housing just above the clamping flange...

Late Motorcraft version looks like the 289/302 (three lobed housing) above the clamping flange......... 

The late 70's - early 80's Motorcraft parts will fit onto the earlier Autolite version - after you modify the upper rotor shaft as shown previously. If you start with a later Motorcraft Y distributor you will want to find an upper rotor shaft like this one.......

The "13L" slot will set the total mechanical advance at 13° distributor/ 26° crank.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Dave,

     289's won't work. up to '62 292 trucks use the distributor you'll want. The adance slot will be wrong,you'll need to find or modify your slots as Steve said. The truck distributor will have more mechanical than you'll need. The reason being, you'll want more initial advance than factory specs, somewhere in the 10 to 12 degree area. And around 36 to 40 total mechanical will be close. If you have 10 initial and 13 distributor ( or 26 crank) you end up at 36 total. As far as h years or the plates. I'd look for an early 90's or late 80's unit. Pretty much any 5 liter from the 8o's will work      

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

[quote]AZ28 (4/11/2009)

---

...this is the stuff you'll need from another, later distributor to replace the point plate with the electronic detector.....

The vacuum pot will need to match the later systems - one with the "dog leg" operating arm. You'll end up with this.......

I used the larger 80's cap and a "TFI" type coil to finish the job..... [quote]

Wow!  Thanks for the pictures and the info, Steve.  Just a few 'fuzzy' points left;
*   I understand a '57 and later distributor will work.  How much later?  Did they use Y-Block dizzys on 289's?  Or, did the Y have it's own unique dizzy?
*  What model years was the Duraspark II used (so I can order the right parts)?

Looks like I'm headed to the auto parts store for everything unless I can find a junk yard that still has 1980's Ford cars (none of ours do).

BTW, 'simplyconnected' is my screen name for:
AOL
Comcast.net
AACA (Antique site)
BAM (Mustang site)
eBay
(here and other places)

Use whichever name is convenient for you.  I'm listed in the phone book with the same number since 1971.
Dave Dare, Royal Oak, MI

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Just about forgot - this is the stuff you'll need from another, later distributor to replace the point plate with the electronic detector.....

The vacuum pot will need to match the later systems - one with the "dog leg" operating arm. You'll end up with this.......

I used the larger 80's cap and a "TFI" type coil to finish the job.....

The coil and bracket are from a Ford "Probe" - with the bracket inverted to offset the coil away from the carb.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

So is it "simply" or maybe Dave?    The cam has to be removed from the Autolite(?) style distributor - and grinding, as you suggested will get the hardend part out of the way so a machinist can finish the job.....

I've got a PDF file of the machining dimensions if you'll PM me an email address.

If you want a better "curve" in there this diagram shows a way to get a reduced mechanical advance if you have one with a bigger slot......

I've got a wiring schematic I used on the bird too if you want something to start with to base your own set-up.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I rebuilt a later Ford distributor, did the weights and springs and installed a Pertronix. I sent it to Mummert to install in my engine. He promptly removed the Pertronix and stuck a duraspark in it. The Duraspark has been in there for 4 or 5 years now, gone a best of 13.50 @ 106, and still works. The Pertronix is sitting on a shelf, I'll sell it cheap........any takers? 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart)