Got the bird back running and when I started it up cold this evening I heard it pop and bend number 4 intake. Got new valve job, set all the valves to 18 thou. cold with slight resistance on the feeler, did each cylinder in firing order at respecive TDC when setting the valves. Did notice however  some seemed looser at a different spot on the cam for some reason, wondering if they expand when hot or tighten up.

Valves clearances do get closer as the engine reaches operating temperature. Lots of things can cause a push rod to bend. The simplest being it was bent a little bit in the first place. I would look at the lifter with a light and see if it is ok and then check the valve to make sure the keepers are still in place and see that it is closed. If everything looks ok, I would put in a straight push rod, pull the coil wire out so it won't start, and crank her over a few times and see that everything functions properly.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Going to have to let Mctim64 reply on that one, he did the head but I'm certain thats not the problem. New spiral groove guides installed.

I agree completely, however when dealing with a master machinest I bow to their expertise and knowledge, it may have been a fault in my adjusting.....

I have to agree to some degree. I've had a rebuilt head from a master machinist and one of the keepers was not fully seated. Had I not looked things over, who knows what damage would have resulted. The point is, even the best in the business make mistakes.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie, whenever I do a head, I use a rubber mallot on each valve spring assembly.  You can do this when the head is in or out.  It's important to use your senses.  Smack each valve hard enough so the valve opens a good amount.  It will immediately return and make a hollow noise.  All the intake valves should sound the same.  All the exhaust valves should sound the same.  If any one sounds different, or if one sticks, NOW is the time to fix it.  If a keeper is very weak (highly unusual), it will break now.  Keepers seat themselves during this "test." 

Certainly, a bent pushrod can be caused by adjusting the rocker arms too tight.  Too much rocker arm ratio with too many spring shims will do it, too.  The rocker arm will continue to travel as the spring is totally collapsed.  Either the pushrod bends or a rocker arm breaks, whichever one is weaker.

Properly installed valve train components usually outlast piston ring life by a few times.  I usually adjust them "sloppy" (.025"-.030") cold, and run the engine without spark plugs while I look.  It's called, COLD TEST.  If all's ok including oil pressure, I run it again with plugs (HOT TEST).  The lifters might sound loud but the engine still runs smoothly.  After all the parts are happilly warmed and seated, I fine-tune my lash adjustments for .019"-warm.  I never bent a pushrod yet (TG).

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

If it stuck a valve in the guide you would see the spring is a little lower than the rest. You did get new guides and I hone and brush each one to make sure no debree is left behind. And I do hit each valve to make sure the locks are seated. Put another pushrod in, adjust the valves and do a quick compression check to see if the valve stuck the piston.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

It sounds like you have a cam timing error, based on the statement "some seemed looser at a different spot on the cam" There are two classic Y block timing errors: following Eichman's Ford Y Block book instructions or doing it like a Chev ie putting the marks on the timing gears together instead of 12 pins apart.  I doubt the a the engine would run with either of these errors but it would bend pushrods because the valves will hit the pistons.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

To add, I put another pushrod in right away, started it up and everything sounds normal. Think I will go thru and check all of them one more time just to be on the safe side.

Same shafts, I did clean and inspect them however and they looked good. This is a new top end on an engine with 81K miles, it may have just been a bad pushrod or something but we drove the car the day before and it ran great.