Personal Message your address and I will send you a Red FLASHING L.E.D.  Just connect it to 12-vdc, and you're good to go!  (Sometimes I use these to flash a few LED's in series.)
Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Sounds Like a Plan, I actually was going to check the cluster if it had an idiot light for brake, but i imagine i could sneak a light in there and it would go unnoticed, perhaps an led.

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

Mike:

You don't have to use the prop valve switch at all, I don't have it wired on my Ranchero.  But if you want, you can make a warning light hookup.  It will tell you if one half of the system has lost braking, as Dave said previously.  Use a small bulb with two contacts, like a bulb for a side marker light.  Run a "hot" wire that comes from the ignition switch to one contact on the bulb, then another wire from the other contact to the switch. 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Then, what are you going to do with the proprotioning valve switch?

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Did a bit of googling and came up with this, I believe problem is solved:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUSTABLE-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH-UNIVERSAL-HOT-RAT-STREET_W0QQitemZ170295018766QQcmdZViewItem

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

I have a friend with a Plymouth Duster with a slightly modified engine pulling 9"hg at idle. The factory booster still seems to work. So, if you have less than 15, it still may work.


Lawrenceville, GA

It is is Fact a 1956 F100, and the original master has a 2 pole switch, the new one has the single wire. I looked at the wiring diagram and have to somehow hook up a different switch to run the brake lights.

Spent the day finishing off all the new brake lines,never repiped a whole vehicle before, sure is easier than it looks, now all thats left is this brake light switch, a bleed, and checking to see if i have enought vacuum for the booster, says min 15lbs.

Happy Mothers day, to the wives and moms of ya all !

Mike

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

You didn't say what year car you have, but if its a 50's/60's car it most likely has the hydraulic two pole switch, mounted on the master cylinder or on the frame. The wires are power in, power out when the brake pedal is pushed. I don't see how a single pole switch will work.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Mike, that proportioning valve switch indicates a EMERGENCY condition.  If either the front or rear systems fail, the proportioning valve goes to one side, activating this switch.  It IS NOT for brake lights, as I had originally thought from your first post (you didn't say it was on your porportioning valve, so we took it as a M/C 'Stop Light' pressure switch).

Hoosier John is right about it not being a brake light switch.  Actually, it is indicating one of your brake line circuits has NO pressure.

This can happen when installing and bleeding your brakes.  The proportioning valve needs to operate 'in the middle' so to speak.  If it comes on during a rear bleed, simply bleed a little more out of the front, and the light will go off.

You got a new Shop Manual on line?  If that means you downloaded it, look at the section for your Brake Warning lights.  There you will find the type of switch you need for your proportioning valve.  If you are stuck using the new 1-wire, you can easilly use it to energize a relay coil, then offer a relay contact to your existing pair of wires.
Hope this helps.
-  Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Thanks for your help fellas !

I would say it's time to find a wiring diagram, just bought a shop manuel online.

Mike

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget