I finally figured out why I had blown gaskets in 2 seperate engines.The problem was NOT with the y-block at all but with me.It turns out my holley 4bl had been dripping after I turned the engine off,filling 2 or more cylinders with fuel.Me not being aware of this,tryed to start it and a blown head gasket resulted.I got lucky that I didnt damage anything else in my new engine.I guess those y-block rods are pretty dang strong!Ive had bent rods on other engines from similar problems.The engine has been running absolutly awesome now for about 5000 miles.NO PROBLEMS!The other engine that I had built for a freind had too much timing and was suffering from detonation.After driving the truck I figured that out,and reset the timming and richined up the carb.now the engine runs perfect with no pinging.Thanxs to everyone that was trying to help me!I love y-blocks and am going to keep building them.

55 fairlane gasser 312 /c4, 57 f100 292/c4, 52 mainline gasser 302/t10 4speed

Composition gaskets simply last longer than steel shim variety so consider it a change for the better although there is some compression ratio loss as a result.  Steel shim gaskets were noted for simply rusting out over time but part of that was simply due to the nature of the gaskets being as thin as they were.  I ran the 0.015” thick gaskets early on on the 427 Fords and they were notorious for rusting through within just months of putting them on.  The steel shim gaskets for the Y are ~0.025” thick so essentially the same problem.  I have zero issues with composition gaskets on the Y and have some that have been in place going on 20 years without any problems whatsoever.  Biggest issues I see with any head gaskets would be flatness of the decks, tightening, overheating, and detonation.

 

Agree with Tom in that backing off for a bit from this would be prudent and then take a new look at the problem.  I’ll suggest pulling the oil pan and with a pressure tester on the cooling system, look for the water leak from the bottom of the engine.  The leak can also be originating in the valley area but will require putting some plates over the water jackets at the intake side of the head if pressure testing at that point.  Also draining the water and allowing the engine to sit overnight may leave a rust trail internally leading to the source of the leak.  This only works with plain water and not with anti-freeze.

 

If your torque wrench is over three years old, then consider replacement or recalibration.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

hey thanx for everybodys input.I am useing new A.R.P bolts with an extra washer on them.Today I discovered about a quart of water in the oil.Im done with these engines.a couple days I ll post an ad to sell everything.I have 11 blocks and 4 sets of heads.The engine that Im currently haveing problems with is a 292 bored 3.830,has Mummert g heads and has a 57 T-bird 245 horse cam.It also has a Blue thunder intake.It has about 55oo miles on it.runs great but blows head gaskets.Make me an offer.Ive spent lots of money on y-block stuff only to blow head gaskets over and over .Why did someone go and re desighn the head gaskets if there wasnt a problem?

55 fairlane gasser 312 /c4, 57 f100 292/c4, 52 mainline gasser 302/t10 4speed

The original head gaskets were the steel shim style and gasket sealer was indeed recommended on both sides of those.  Most composite gaskets being used now do not necessarily require any sealer while the methodology of tightening will vary somewhat from the service manual.  For the steel shim gaskets, the shop manual recommended torquing to 65 lbs, cranking the engine and getting up to temperature, cooling and then retorquing to 75 lbs.  With composite gaskets, simply bring the torque up to the final spec in steps before cranking the engine and go on.

 

Proper head bolt tightening is paramount.  For composite head gaskets, use the factory recommended tightening sequence pattern and work up in steps to the recommended torque amount.  Easy way to remember the tightening sequence is to start in the middle and work outwards in a spiral pattern as that typically works for all engines.  I don’t back off the head bolts for any reason unless I’m removing the heads.

 

Here’s a quote from the 1957 shop manual which still pertains to composite head gasket use.

 

The original head bolts are notorius for stretching and especially after half a century of use so the bolts themselves can be a contributing factor.  For this reason new grade eight bolts are typically recommended on new engine rebuilds.  I prefer using head bolt washers in all instances as it does give a quick check for intial bolt depth by running the bolts down into their holes without the washers in place.  Then putting the washers on the bolts just prior to torquing them in place gives that additional ~0.125” cushion factor.

 

If coolant leakage is occurring where it’s a drip coming from the outside of the engine, then use a pressure tester to verify exactly where the leak is originating.  Nothing worse than pulling the heads than finding that the leak is originating from a source other than the head gasket.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

i'm new to the y-block field and dont know a much about putting engines together but i checked the factory shop manual for my 62 galaxie it said to use cylinder head gasket sealer on both sides of new gasket (but then later in the book it says not to use gasket sealer haha??)  install bolts and torque them to 55 - 65 - 75 then it says in bold print, after the bolts have been torqued do not disturb them

another thing i thought about having a later style block or heads with the steam holes and bolting it to an older style with out would that cause the head gasket to blow??

-jason

  Disc Brakes are for Cowards         

I once had a 428 Cobra Jet engine that had been rebuilt several times. When I got everything back from the machine shop I cleaned and assembled it. When I was checking my main clearances with plastigage, I wasn't even compressing the plastigage. I thought I had the wrong size main bearings, but miking the crank said no.  To make a long story short, an old mechanic told me to get a new set of main bolts that this set had been stretched to many times and the threads on the bolts were binding up with the threads in the block. After I got a new set of bolts for the main caps everything was right on.

Maybe something as simple as a new set of bolts might make the difference and retorquing 30,55, and 75.  Good luck to ya,   Bud 

Bud in Northern Arizona on route 66 in Winslow (standin' on the corner)

If you're American, buy American

631/2 Galaxie 500XL 406   55 T-Bird

never touched em,and blew em both

55 fairlane gasser 312 /c4, 57 f100 292/c4, 52 mainline gasser 302/t10 4speed

Im aware of the head bolt lenths.I think Hoosier Hurricain is right.I think I maybe stretchin the bolts too much by torqeing to 80.thats the one thing ive done on all of these things.I think thats my common denominator in this mess.?Im stickin with 75 instead.

55 fairlane gasser 312 /c4, 57 f100 292/c4, 52 mainline gasser 302/t10 4speed

Nathan,are you aware that there are 3 different bolt lengths for these heads?The lower 5 are all the same length,but two of the upper bolts are longer than the other 3.The two longer ones have to go in the end holes.They will bottom out otherwise.People unfamiliar with these engines often don't know about this little quirk.The end bolts are only a little longer,but it's enough to cause a problem.Also, are you putting the gasket on with the square corner oriented properly?The square corner must be on the upper side,towards the intake.

Like the other guys on here,I've had a bunch of Y-blocks over the last 50 or so years,including abusive use in dirt track cars.The only head gasket problem I've ever seen with them was because of out of place bolts.I've seen these engines with upwards of 300,000 miles that have never been worked on.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

hey John,do you back off the bolts first?I always drain the water before re torqueing the heads.I relentlessly double and triple check everything since all this has started driveing me crazy.I amm currently useing the new redesigned Best gaskets on my truck.They did leak water after re tightening the bolts ,but have stopped leaking today.I poured 8 quarts of oil in the recycling bin and two filters.I hope its done leaking.Some of the other high performance engines that I have built have leaked a little water in the beginning,but later stopped.Water leaks seem to stop on there own.I keep blowin the sealing ring too.The longest Ive had one stay together was 5000 miles .They usually blow before then .,especially if Im hotroddin.For years I just avoided driveing them because of fear of getting stranded.

55 fairlane gasser 312 /c4, 57 f100 292/c4, 52 mainline gasser 302/t10 4speed