Since 1961 and three pickups later, I have used just about everything to lower a pickup except a clip and mono leafs.  I always got what I wanted in stance, but never got what I needed in performance.

I currently run the axle on top of the springs to get as low as possible.  It resulted in about a 4 1/2" drop with stock springs and no interference with the pan.  When I reversed the eyes on the main leafs to lower it another 3", problems started to develop.  I did have interference with the pan so I raised the front motor mounts.  I had very little axle travel left before bottoming out on the bumper stops and that required me to "C" notch the frame and cut the bumpers in half.  The drag link looked like it was shooting for the stars and had to be made parallel with the ground while in the straight ahead position.  The normal fix is to heat the steering arm and bend it down (not for the faint of heart).  With the axle on top, it would not bend down far enough without the drag link touching the axle.  I "Zed" the drag link and now it has no interference.

It took a lot of work to get this thing to go down the road straight and I am still modifying it.  I have since installed a panhard bar and an extra set of shocks to get it stabilized at speed.

I have talked a few guys through this process because they were stubborn and cheap like me.  If you only consider about $.50 per hour for your labor, it is very inexpensive, but for the street, I would consider the mono leafs or reversed eyes on the main leaf for a medium drop.  For a wild drop I would use a mild dropped axle with a mono leaf (or reversed eyes on the stock main leaf).  Either way extra wide wheels deteriorates the quality of steering, so tire and wheel selection starts the "steering tuning" process.

  

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)



BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

Hi Charlie,

I would be interested to hear about your experience with monoleaf springs and I think some others would be also.  If you have a moment could you please open a new topic and let us know what you did;  buy a kit,  have a good instruction article from a mag or other source another guy did it on a similar truck,  problems benefits etc etc.? 

Also are you coming to Columbus this year?

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

It is still on top. I think any lower than I am will require notching the frame for '61 - '64 trucks.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie when yu did the Mono-Springs did you move them under the front axle or leave them on top?

                                       Michael

Michael

Sandy Valley, NV

monoleafs sounds good i kinda like the custom bracket under neath idea i would justhave to see how much clearance i have with my oil pan seems safe to me

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD

With the exception of a dropped axle, and assuming that a solid axle is retained, won't the axle move closer to the pan, regardless of the method used to lower?



I've been using monoleafs up front for a while now. They provided about 2 1/2" drop. Good so far. The main argument I saw about them is if the spring breaks, you might be stranded. But aren't you in the same boat if the main leaf of a multileaf spring breaks? Didn't seem like a significantly valid argument to me.



Oh, the most cost effective way will probably be to have your springs de-arched. There will be a limit to how far you can drop it by de-arching, however.


Lawrenceville, GA

57 F100 ,

Try a search on Goggle . There are 1000's of " How To" articles on the web . Lots of tech ideas in Classic Truck magazine as well  .I have found a lot of interesting info ,a lot of it is on early F trucks .Hope this helps.

Lon

yblocksdownunder

so what would you recommend i do safe and none expensive way to lower the front leaf springs under axle with custom brackets or d-arch them

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD

Although it is done a lot and mostly people get away with it,  just removing a leaf or two is not a good idea.  Leaf springs are designed with a certain span between the ends of the leaves and this is doubled by removing a leaf, therefore the stress in the remaining leaves  is increased a lot.   It lowers the vehicle because it also reduces the effective spring rate.

De arching the springs is probably a better bet if you have access to a good spring shop and your current springs are in good shape.  This essentially changes the initial zero load postion of the spring but does not materially effect the spring rate.  Your can also add a full second leaf under the main leaf to increase the spring rate and still lower the truck.

Have you considered using monoleaves?  I asked on this site earlier about monoleaf springs but there was not too much relevent experience forthcoming.  The other sites I checked had mixed opinions and I was not persuaded to try them or not to try them. 

When the springs are fully compressed and hard on the rubber bumpers, the shocks should be at the full comprerssed point of their travel no matter what springs you have.  

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

iv heard of d-arching the leaf springs is that safe or would that put to much stress on the leafs

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD