Todd,

I agree about the weatherstripping. I put it on before mounting the doors and it is causing a challenge in aligning the doors because it is difficult to get the door compressed. However I am reluctant to take the weatherstripping off and redo. May come to that if it gets to difficult. Hope not.

Skyliner

Others have noted very similar points, and I just hought I'd chime in with an opinion or two...

I prefer to do my door alignment without any of the door weatherstrip installed. It allows you to close the door without applying pressure to compress new weatherstripping. Likewise, I like to start without the door (jamb) strike installed. By doing these two things, you can focus on that which is of primary importance...the gaps.

Others coorectly state that you should adjust the rear door gap first. after this is done it makes adjusting the leading adge of the door to the cowl much more straightforward. After this is done, go back and put your strike on, and weatherstripping.

The front clip has extensive room for adjustment...if you make it through the doors, getting the core support, hood, and fenders located correctly will be a cinch...

Todd in Central California...about half way between Fresno and Sacramento

1956 Thunderbird - 1960 F-100 - 1961 Starliner - 1961 Imperial

Having had a day to try the doors as  yet. I want a day where I have the focus.

Skyliner

Skyliner-

How did your door project end up? Success I hope!

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

Daniel,

That screw head you're describing is called a clutch head.The only place I've ever seen them used is on some John Deere farm equipment.They were used to hold the access panels on the cross auger of a combine head that I had 25 years ago.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

somebody must have replaced mine. It has an oblong dog-bone shaped head on it (recessed of course like a screw head)

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

The striker plate is held on by phillips screws. I used a 3/8" socket with a large phillips head on the socket. craftsman part number 44373.

Skyliner

Skyliner - do you have the tool needed for the hardware that holds the striker plate to the door jamb? Where did you get yours?

Dan

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Good suggestion on removing the latch. I think I will try that approach.

Skyliner

I always let my door hang on the hinge with out support when I'm adjusting. Thats what they do in real life. I take the latch off the door or post so it doesn't move the door around and make a false fit. Then I adjust the front body line (this is on a 57 tbird and the front fenders are solid) maybe in your case it coould be the rear line. If the non adjustble line is straight and the other line is off then you will probably have to adjust the body. On the t-bird the back of the door is raised by removing shims at the radiator support or removing shims at the mount under the rear of the door. The rear line can be opened or closed by removal or adding shims to the rear body mount. When the door fits the hole free and clean then I put the latch back on and make sure it don't change my lines. Body shims on the old Ford make a big difference.