hello there im fairly new here but i really like y blocks. i am in the middle of building a 59 ford f100 and plan on putting a warmed up 292 in it.

Plans for it

-machined and bored block

-milled heads to level everything out and up compression

-rebuilt heads with hard seats, maybe new valve train

-refurbished rods 292 rods

-alum 4 barrel intake

-better cam

-everything else rebuilt or new

-a few dress up parts

-headers and dual exhaust

-would love a turned down 312 crank but doubt that happens



some questions i have for you guys are what would you guys suggest for this motor. its going in a 59 ford f100 that i converted to 4wd with the hopes of it being a daily driver.



Question i have for you guys

-Any suggestion on a good cam? I want a pretty good lope but dont want to lose all my low end

- Any intakes other than the blue thunder coming out anytime soon?

-what would be some good mods to the heads? im guessing port and pollish, what about valve train up grades? stainless valves? would love roller rockers just so i could tell people about them but they would really serve me no good, would they?

-anything else you guys could suggest to make this motor better, im not looking to build a race car but would still like a pretty strong motor



-One final random thought. I was thinking about maybe adding a air induction system of some sort, nothing insane but i was thinking that a nice looking hood scoop would look pretty cool but if im gunna go through the trouble of building one into my hood it better be hooked up to something on the other end. also i was thinking i could build an induction tube that went from the opening in the front of the hood back to the carb. I was thinking building some sort of airbox above the carb that the hood scoop and induction tube ran into just for the fun of it. I had some concerns about this tho, im sure this would work fine while driving down the road, but would this restrict the air flow to much and choke it out at stoplights and such. And yes i realize this would be kinda pointless on a street truck but i figured i ask just to see what you guys said. Sorry about the extremely long post and thanks in advance for any suggestions you give me

Welcome to this site! Great forum, great people. Insane too .

My 50 cents go to '69 Ford Torino Cobra style scoop on '59 hood. Not too high, but has nice shapes...

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

Contact John Mummert and look at his website. He is a Y-block guru and is always happy to help.He has everything you need. Calling him is best. www.ford-y-block.com

I have brand new never installed 312 crank if interested. Forged.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

I don't think it is pointless. In fact, it is quite fun!



A lot of guys like the Isky E4 for street use. To avoid loosing all of your bottom end, I'd keep it below about 225ish degrees at .050".



John Mummert's new intake is available.



Any idea which heads you have? I'd look for some G or 113 heads for a naturally aspirated 292. They are two of the highest compression heads. With these on a .050 over 292, you will not be above 9:1; closer to 8.75. I'd at least install new stainless valves and hard exhaust seats. A port and polish can be expensive. Determine your goal before you spend money on that. If it's not necessary, it's a big waste of money. Roller rockers can help. I think I'm going to mess this explaination up but here it goes. They will open the valve faster, and farther. Even if your heads and intake can't flow any more at the maximum lift, they will be able to maximize the flow at lower lifts and better fill the cylinder. And, I think you pick up a little duration. But here again, rollers may not be worth the expense.



Install dual exhaust with headers or rams horn manifolds. When you're building the engine, take the time to set the proper clearance between the engine and the head. It varies slightly from builder to builder but you want around .045" clearance. This will maximize compression and reduce the engine's tendency to knock.


Lawrenceville, GA

thanks for the replies and i am always looking at Mummert's site and he has some really slick stuff. i would love to have one of his stroker kits but im a college kid so dont think so. I have not seen his new intake listed over there yet am i just missing it or could someone tell me where i might be able to find it.

-when you say set the correct distance from the engine to the head. What exactly do you mean like the head gasket thickness or what?

I don't think John has them on his site yet. I'm sure he'll be around later.



It's the clearance between the top of the piston at top dead center and the flat surface of the head. The head gasket thickness does play a part. You will need to pre-assemble the engine, set the piston to top dead center... you know what, here are some links. It will be explained in these links better than I can do it.



http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic2929-3-1.aspx?

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic8010-3-1.aspx?



Lawrenceville, GA

What tranny will you be using and what rear end ratio? That can determine the cam to be used with your combo. The 225 @ .050 is pretty correct if using an automatic and not going with a stall on the converter. If going with a stick shift then you can up the cam in the neighborhood of .032 too .035 @ .050 and still have a decent bottom end and still carry the rpms too something close to 5500 rpms with the right gearing. If using a stick w/overdrive then you have more room to play with.

-Gary Burnette-

im planning on running a dodge nv4500 5speed stick. so yea it will have overdrive, and im not sure on the rear yet. it has 3.92? right now but that might go to like a 3.73 or so but im not sure.

Camshaft suggestion if interested

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic31665-7-1.aspx

The E2 is 226 degrees when measured at .050.On the money as per charlies suggestion.

Hawkin my stuff-But it is GOOD STUFF

Oldmics

ok doing all this searching about cams is got me asking questions. so could some what explain to me what the specs mean, i mean i realize the valve lift and stuff but just a good run down would be good and also what effects that changing these different specs have on a engine. thanks and sorry bout the dumb questions.