Ted;

I'm in the process of building a stroked and blown 292 and just received Schumann's most recent price list and news letter. The new center cam bearings with the grove on the O.D. are now available and I was about to purchase it. I can't envision how you would pull that center cam bearing into place rather than driving ? could you explain that to me so I cold pass it along to the shop?

Thanks,

Rono.

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

The simplest method is use some ½” all thread instead of the driving bar.  With the all thread material inserted through the bearing ‘puck’ and with the bearing installed on it and placed securely up against the hole in which the bearing is going to be installed, the all thread goes to the end of the block where a flat piece of stock is held in place with another nut.  Simply tighten on this nut at the back (or front) of the block and the cam bearing will pull into the hole.  The bearings are more easily pulled in from the fronts of the holes as many of the Y blocks have the holes chamfered only on the front edge of the holes.  Cam bearings can be pulled in from the back sides of the cam bearing holes more easily if the edge is chamfered or ‘broken’ with a file.  If this isn’t clear, just give a holler and I’ll make another attempt.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

!,

Rono, ted has explained it exactly, this is picture of tool i made 40 years ago and is easy to use as ted pointed out. If not sure, it may be more prudent to get machine shop to fit them. TIP!  mark tool with marker pen inline with cam bearing slots so as to install them correctly. best regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Roger:

With the heads off and the cam out, you can put a trouble light in the center cam bearing and look down the feed holes to the top of the block.  You should see the slots in the cam bearing.  Or, you could blow through the holes with an air hose and see if air comes out of the cam bearing slots.  I'm guessing the cam bearing is not installed correctly. 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Does 45psi at cranking speed seem high to anyone else?


Lawrenceville, GA

If your guy has it partially apart with the rocker shaft assemby off spinning the motor with no plugs should get oil flowing out of the oil feed hole in the head.You should see oil.If no oil my bet is the bearing is incorrectly installed OR was too tight on the cam and got turned'.Did you ever have oil to the rockers initiatley after installing it? The engine rebuild guy should remove the cam and check it out.ALL oil flow to the rockers comes from the centre cam bearingIf there is by chance oil flow with the rockers off the rocker shaft was assembled with shaft upside down.When that motor was assembled oil flow could have been tested by removing the distributor and turning the oil pump shaft with a drill to prime the motor and check for proper oil flow to the top of the heads.Too late now but hope this helps.

  

I just went through basically the same thing. With the rocker assemblies and the spark plugs removed I did not get any oil up to the heads by turning the engine over with the starter. I removed the distributor and used an electric drill and a 1/4" deep socket to turn the oil pump and oil came up to the heads. Apparently the starter does not turn the engine over fast enough for the oil to reach the heads. 

It certainly sounds like your rebuilder made a mistake installing the Cam bearings. I'd say he owes you some rebuilt Rockers by now.

Paul

Black & Decker 1/2" Variable Speed turning as fast as it would go.

I don't think this has been mentioned? The Drill needs to be in reverse does it not?

Paul