Hello Roger! Are you still with us?How did things work out on your motor?Never heard anymore back from you.

  

I'll say no on this one.  The choke assembly requires a constant stream of air for it to work properly.  It’s that air stream that pulls the heat into the choke heat coil chamber and without it, the choke will work lazy if it works at all.  You can call that stream of air an engineered vacuum leak.  An option is an electric choke coil so you don't have to rely on the heat being generated on the outside of the tube in the intake manifold exhaust crossover passage.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hello Roger! Glad to hear you have figured out the problem(sounds like it).As far as the heat tube for the choke-the service replacement from Ford was a kit that screws the hot air line for the choke into the exhaust manifold.Same idea as you would see on a lot of Ford cars in the 60'S.Thats what was on mine when I got it and I found out by looking in my Ford parts book that it is a replacement for the tubes through the manifold.You may find a kit on Epay as I have seen them from time to time.If I run across one shortly I will post it for you.Good luck on your motor.I will be looking at my cam before I install it on my rebuild project.

Roger! There is a kit on Epay if you are interested.Item # 170411578489.If your tubes through the manifold are rusted simply plug them.

  

(Quote) My builder tore the engine completly down and showed me that everything was in place correctly. He is going to take out the clevite bearings and put in another set of clevite. I took my cam down the street to a roll die shop to see if he could help me on measuring the cam groove. Turns out he is building his own hotrod, so he was sympathetic to my situation. He measured the depth with a depth guage and also electronically. The groove measured 0.0017. I took it back to the builder and we tried to measure the width of the groove in the new cam because it is wider than the cam that came out of the old engine. The old cam groove width is about 0.0065, and the groove in the new cam is about 0.0100 a difference of about 0.0035 in width. Do you still recommend grooving it out to 0.0032. John at the roll die asked if the cam was soft so he could cut it or is it hardened and needed to be ground



Roger 56

I think you have typed the decimal place incorrect as .0017 is 1.7thou which is very small.



I have always cut the groove to .032" ( 32 thousand) deep and leave the width as manufactured (usually is .100") and have had excellent top oiling. I purposely don't widen the groove as I do not want to reduce the load bearing surface on the cam bearing. I measured an original Ford cam and got a groove width of .065" and the a replacement cam has a width of .100". The camshafts are cast so cut easily with a lathe. This is funny yet not so funny. Tell the machinist to make sure the tool bit is clear before engaging headstock as I have a new Isky RPM 300 with a nick on the first lobe from that mistake. We started doing this to the camshafts when rebuilding Y blocks when I worked for Lincoln Mercury in the early 60's to correct the top oiling problems.





One engine I rebuilt had a PCV setup that would suck oil into the manifold. The early 221 Windsors (62 Meteor/Fairlanes) have a road-draft tube with a pot cleaner type of filter at the engine. I installed one of these filters in in the Y block PCV valley cover and it stopped the oil sucking problem. I do not crimp the overflow tubes or if I do it is very slightly as (my opinion) is if you install heavier valve springs and performance oil pump you had better have adequate oil to the timing chain and distributor gear or it will run hot in a hurry. I use a Rollmaster chain and a pump from Precision Oil Pumps with HD drive shaft.



Ted's method of grooving the bearing would definitely work. I don't know method of how the groove is cut inside the block.



marv

That's probably the problem. It looks like .032 to .055 deep has worked for others. Widen it some, too. .010 is real small. 1/16" is .0625.


Lawrenceville, GA

Roger56



Did you get a chance to measure the groove depth.

marv

The EDB-E block is 1958-mid 59. D-17 doesn't mean anything now. It is just the number of the pattern used to make that portion of the head. They were making a million Y-Block heads a year and needed more than 1 set of patterns.

Don't under estimate how important the depth of the groove in the cam is. If it is too shallow you won't get oil to both sides even if everything else is perfect.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

Thanks Ted...I get it now! I'm sure I will be talking to you again now that I've found this site and have started building this stroked and blown motor. I do want to try out this grooved cam bearing from Schummans.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Was your oil pressure gauge checked against another to insure it was not reading higher than actual?  There are a rash of gauges out there that are reading twice or more too high.  Low oil pressure simply compounds any issues regarding getting oil to the top end.  Which oil pump design are you using?  Spur gear design or Gerotor design?

 

I have good results using the premium Durabond cam bearing sets.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hello Roger! I would not put it back together until you figure out the problem.No reason this should not work properly on a rebuilt motor.Something is not right in that middle cam bearing or the camshaft.