I want to paint my Fordo while I have it out of the car.Just finished cleaning 50+ years worth of crud off it.The case is cast iron.Can I use Rustoleum or do I need to use a hightemp paint?I was thinking of doing it in an aluminum color.Any other suggestions?I found a good machinist to work on my 292.He had a recently rebuilt 312 on an engine stand.He also had a 426 Hemi built completely with NOS parts INCLUDING the engine block.Big bucks there.

  

I have used Castblast, it is a gray/silver color and is made for cast. I don't remember who makes it, but I have a couple cans and will look tomorrow.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

I think Cast Blast is an Eastwood Company product, who's products I have grown to prefer.

If you have the case and components bead/sand blasted to original/natural condition, then a clear coat (Eastwood calls it Diamond Clear) would be great in several coats to seal the pores to resist grime.  Heat on the tranny and bell housing shouldnt be an issue under normal operating conditions.

I've used a gold color Rustolium Hammer finish on tranny cases which looks pretty good/sporty, though black or clear would have been more original.

Cheers... Brian

Cylinder Index = 84

Current Experiment = `57 Tbird, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Mark, jiust looked at my stash, Cast Blast is made by Seymour. I get mine at NAPA but I think most of the chain stores sell it. Eastwood also has it. It works great on blast or cleaned cast parts, I use it on alot of things seems to hold up well with 2 or 3 coats.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Thanks Glen and others for suggestions.By the way were these transmission cast housings  originally painted and what color?Now what is good for cleaning accumulated crud on the frame around engine compartment.I have a power washer but something needs to be applied first to break down this crud.Engine cleaner doesn't seem to do much but varsol applied libberally several times does.Anything else work?

  

Simple Green, the green stuff and not the yellow cuz it has citris which will attack paint.

Scraping (with soft tool or putty knife) the heavy crud first is best, otherwise you'll simply have the cleanest crud around. Once you only have grime left after crud is scraped, then a liberal application of SG, let it soak in even to the point of drying. Apply a little more and brush what you can with a scrub brush. Then power wash, minding where the spray and grime will splash.

A second series may be required on tough spots.

At least that's how I clean frames and axles and trannys and such.

Cheers... Brian

Cylinder Index = 84

Current Experiment = `57 Tbird, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Although my research is geared towards late fifties ford trucks, I pay attention to the cars as the details are often the same for trucks. I believe the case was left cast iron. The tailshaft was left as cast alum and the pan was bare steel.



There are plenty of pictures of ford painting the engine with the bellhousing attached(but no trans), but I'm not sure how they would of attached the torque converter?



I'll see if I can dig some photo's up.

1959 and 1960 f-100sAkron OH

Whatever you do, don't use a Chevrolet color!  You'll lose about 20 horsepower! LOL!

'56 Chris

"I'd rather have a sister in a whorehouse than a Chevy motor in my Ford!"

Marc, I worked at Ford dealerships in the 60's and 70's and I never saw a painted transmission.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Hello Glen! I am just looking to cover up the cast iron bellhousing and trans case.I wil have a nice fresh painted motor going back in and would like to cover up the rusty Fordo.Probably use a grey Rustoleum.