Mark,

Many companies sell the cast iron grey paint which works well.

as far as the cleaning goes, I lay a large cardboard or carpet scrap on the ground under the vehicle. I get 5 gallons of deisel or kerosene, use a sand blasting gun and put a hose from the gun into the kero and give everything a good soaking then poke and scrape at the thick stuff and spray some more. after it has soaked a bit spray it down as though you were sandblasting it, then blow dry everything with air. Wear a mist and fume mask because it really vaporizes the stuff and don't smoke around the fumes. If paint isn't an issue and you want to topcoat with paint, I give the final rinsing with laquer thinner to remove any residue, it dries quick and paint will adhere better.

They sell a cheap generic sandblasting kit at wal-Mart and other places for like $12.00. You may want to restrict the hose size or you will go through some serious fluid. I restrict down to like a 1/4" clear gasline hose like used on snowmobiles.

Then take the oil and kero soaked card board and start your bonfire.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Thanks for the tip Ron.I got the trans and bellhousing all cleaned up.Varsol,wire brush and power washer.Repeat.Amazing how much crud and how stubborn it is to get off after 50+ years.It was suggested to me that oven cleaner also works well.I used it on the front frame engine area  to get the last of the stubborn crud off.Works well because it foams a bit and sticks where it is applied.Leave for 15-20 mins and power wash off.

  

Duplicolor makes a cast iron colored engine paint, I used it on my cuise-o-matic and it really matches well. I haven't put the tranny in the car yet but it came out good. If you really want to get the crud off use toluene and acetone in a metal drain pan and a wire brush, man that stuff will take off anything. Those are the main chemicals in brake parts cleaner. Brake parts cleaner also works well but it is expensive. Don't use it around paint though. I use it if the crud really won't come off and on parts that are out/off of the car. Just use some gloves to protect your hands.

Hello Glen! I am just looking to cover up the cast iron bellhousing and trans case.I wil have a nice fresh painted motor going back in and would like to cover up the rusty Fordo.Probably use a grey Rustoleum.

  

Marc, I worked at Ford dealerships in the 60's and 70's and I never saw a painted transmission.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Whatever you do, don't use a Chevrolet color!  You'll lose about 20 horsepower! LOL!

'56 Chris

"I'd rather have a sister in a whorehouse than a Chevy motor in my Ford!"

Although my research is geared towards late fifties ford trucks, I pay attention to the cars as the details are often the same for trucks. I believe the case was left cast iron. The tailshaft was left as cast alum and the pan was bare steel.



There are plenty of pictures of ford painting the engine with the bellhousing attached(but no trans), but I'm not sure how they would of attached the torque converter?



I'll see if I can dig some photo's up.

1959 and 1960 f-100sAkron OH

Simple Green, the green stuff and not the yellow cuz it has citris which will attack paint.

Scraping (with soft tool or putty knife) the heavy crud first is best, otherwise you'll simply have the cleanest crud around. Once you only have grime left after crud is scraped, then a liberal application of SG, let it soak in even to the point of drying. Apply a little more and brush what you can with a scrub brush. Then power wash, minding where the spray and grime will splash.

A second series may be required on tough spots.

At least that's how I clean frames and axles and trannys and such.

Cheers... Brian

Cylinder Index = 84

Current Experiment = `57 Tbird, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Thanks Glen and others for suggestions.By the way were these transmission cast housings  originally painted and what color?Now what is good for cleaning accumulated crud on the frame around engine compartment.I have a power washer but something needs to be applied first to break down this crud.Engine cleaner doesn't seem to do much but varsol applied libberally several times does.Anything else work?

  

Mark, jiust looked at my stash, Cast Blast is made by Seymour. I get mine at NAPA but I think most of the chain stores sell it. Eastwood also has it. It works great on blast or cleaned cast parts, I use it on alot of things seems to hold up well with 2 or 3 coats.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL