Mark

   The most cost effective way to FIX your distributor would be to buy a new one from Auto-Zone or Pep Boys. These sell for around $ 60 or so. Tell the parts guy its for a 1964 Ford truck with a 292 V8.

   When you replace it note the position of the rotor and a fixed position on the engine. As you remove the old distributor the rotor will move(rotate). When you put the new distributor in, it will move as the gears mesh. Do not turn the engine over UNTIL the rotor is pointed at the fixed position on the engine that the old rotor pointed at so the timing will be as before. If the new rotor is not pointed right, pull the distributor out and adjust as necessary and try again. Pete

if I replace with the new one as Pete suggests, will my Petronix module still work with the new dist.??

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

Sounds like both the mechanical and vacuum portions of your distributor are non-functional.  Although both problems could be tackled with the distributor in the vehicle, it’s definitely easier with it pulled out.  With the distributor removed from the engine and on a bench, the breaker plate assembly needs to be removed so you can get to the weights below it and then work on getting the rotor mount so it’s working free or independently of the lower shaft.  Removing the ‘wick’ under the rotor that’s located inside the shaft will allow some oil to be directly added to the inner workings of the shaft and help to free it up.  Be sure to replace the wick when the distributor goes back together with a little bit of oil on the wick.

The vacuum advance chamber needs a vacuum check to insure the diaphragm is okay.  But fixing the mechanical portion of the distributor will fix most of the drivability issues while correcting the vacuum advance portion will help the initial bottom end response and the fuel economy.

The Pertronix unit can be transferred to another '57 and up distributor if it comes to this.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

sounds like its gotta come out, so believe I'll try the fix first...

thanks for the speedy responses, men!

Happy New Year from Texas!

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

As said before it is easy to just buy a new rebuilt one but I think you can free up the advance mech. in your existing dizzy they have a tendency to get a little rusty.  I'll bet with a little clean up you will be back on the road with a noticeable improvement in performance today!

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Mark - There are two mechanical systems to work on within the distributor unit -

(1) The centrifugal advance down in the base of the dizzy (I'm assuming the engine still has the '57 distributor) - you should be able (with the distributor cap popped off) to turn the rotor bug slightly with your hand against the internal springs. The advance direction is clockwise - as the engine rev's up the mechanical advance mechanism moves the rotor "ahead" of current firing position (the static set point when she's stopped). It won't look like much - but the electrical advance at the dizzy is doubled at the crank - so what looks like 10° of a turn will be 20° with the engine running.

(2) The vacuum advance system advances the timing by moving the points and point plate clockwise - independant of the rotor advance discussed above. This allows it to "add" advance above and beyond the centrifugal when the engine can use it at cruise. With the distributor cap popped off - vacuum applied to the inlet port of the pot (I just use a clean piece of rubber vacuum hose and do it by mouth) - it should move the plate and points clockwise as the operator arm moves toward the pot. If you can't get the pot to hold vacuum - its the culprit. If it holdsd vacuum and can't move the plate and points - they may be rusted and stuck. 

On an old dizzy - both of these systems respond well to the application of WD40 and a throrough clean-up.

The points on the '64 replacement distributor should be the same "curved base" as the ones in your '57  - so the Pertronix outfit should work with it as well - assuming you can't get the one you have to work.   

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

even more "thanks" for the ideas/suggestions...

if the weather holds, I will try these today or tonight.

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

so, I'm ready to pull the dist., do some clean up as suggested above; guess I should mark its location (rotor) so that I can reinstall it in the correct position so the timing is not "thrown off"; anything else I should do?  does #1 piston need to be at TDC?

btw, Happy New Year to all!  Don't forget your blackeyed peas and cabbage tomorrow!!

thanks, Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

That's where I would put it too be on the safe side.

-Gary Burnette-

Mark:

Nothing wrong with Gary's method.  Personally, I turn the engine until the rotor points straight toward the firewall.  The key to any method is to be sure to NOT turn the engine while the distributor is out, or you will have to start from square one.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"