Good suggestions Paul2748.One more reminder as Ted mentions in his article, make sure to put the neoprene crankshaft seals in with an end sticking up a little.  In other words its not installed like the rope one with the ends level with the block.

  

My friend did it with the engine in the car. If i remember correctly, you do have to unbolt the idler arm to drop the suspension so you can remove the pan. You have to unloosen the crank so it can drop down a little so its easier to get the upper seal in.



Some tips I picked up off the net and magazine articles.



Do not put any RTV on the ends of the main seal



Make sure the lip of the main seal points in.



Put a small bead of RTV (Ultra grade) in the corners of the block where the retainer rests. (smidgen)



Put some RTV between the bolt head and the washer of the retainer bolts.



Put a dab of RTV on the end of the side seals before inserting to make sure the bottom (actually the top) is sealed. You could also put some in the channel before inserting the side seal.



Hope these help


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks - If I have to pull the intake, then I am going with the machine screw at the corners.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Hello Paul.Just a couple of things I remember from doing a rear main on my 289 about 20+ years ago.It helps if you loosen off the main cap bolts to allow a little less tension on the crank.As you push the upper half into place try to compress the seal as you install it and try very hard not to knick the back of the seal on the sharp edge of the block.Last tip would be keep your mouth closed as you are lying under the motor unless you like the taste of motor oil.

  

Greg, looks like you have your valley leak fixed! but it is worth the time to place a straight edge along the sealing edges and check for straightness, as usually the corners are bent up and hence cannot seal properly, the oil filler corner allways is bent the worst due to the oil cap being banged down hard and strangled to remove and the tube allways catches on things when engine is being moved etc. I have years back drilled and tapped the 4 corners and fitted small bolts, but good straight edges should seal properly. best regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Paul2748,



Hey I also had a problem with my valley cover leaking. It was an older style composition gasket. I replaced it with a new neoprene gasket, and it sealed much better this time. Not sure which you have, but it was definitely worth replacing for me.

My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.

Mark: thanks for the upper seal removal tip. However, nearly all the info posted here about seal replacement is about doing it on the "bench," not in chassis. Despite it being obviously more difficult, do you have any advice on reinstalling an upper seal, neoprene or rope type, in the car? Thanks

Paul

Just for your information, Best Gasket has a new type of rope seal made out of some other material than the old type. Saw it in a article in Street Rodder.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

thanks a lot,everybody. I usually have always had a bit

of seepage at the crank seal,but figured it was pretty much

normal. Had one in a 55 merc that poured,but rebuilt the

engine and the new stuff held pretty well. I had'nt ever

heard of neoprene seals for Ys at that time(1965). I  will

give them a try next time. thanks again.

55f100

West Monroe,La.

Ted! Thanks for showing that info on rear main seal installation.I am going to be using the Best rear seal on my rebuild and your information will certainly help to install it properly and avoid leaks especially sealing those pan bolts which I never would have thought about.Without a doubt you are one of the most knowledgeable Y guys in the world.I have a tip for anyone looking to replace the rope type seal on the car and cant get the upper half out of the block.If you screw a sheetmetal screw into the end of the seal it will give a grip for vicegrips.Have someone turn the motor over by hand and pull on the seal at the same time.It should come right out.How about some tips on sealing the valley cover as Paul has mentioned?