Read Ted,

its like the old argument about viscosities also, some say thicker is better some say thinner, the thicker because it gives a better cushion and the thinner because it flows through quicker and stays cooler. I tend to be on the thicker side since my engines sit for months during winter and when I travel jobs. In my opinion the thicker will hang in the bearings longer and not drip out so that initial start after sitting a couple months has a bit of cushion. I think thinner the bearings drip dry and it is that initial start where 90% of wear comes from after sitting.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

This is sort of like talking about oil brands.  You’ll find arguments for and against pressurizing the shafts.  Here’s a previous thread on the subject.  Be sure to read all pages and then come to your own conclusions.

Pressurized rocker shafts

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Grovedawg,

I am not saying pressurization is not good, it is good because it forces the parts to float on a film of oil preventing wear. I am just looking at things from all angles and think too much restriction may lead to what I mentioned in previous reply.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

I was able to twist one of fine, with a little patience and some WD40. The second one was more stubborn. It deformed a little, and it finally came out. I'll probably have to replace the one, so I might as well get a new set.



I'm still a little scetchy on the pressurization process. Pros and Cons. But, I'm going to finish pulling the engine apart tonight/tomorrow, and I'm sure once I visually concieve the oiling process it will come together. Thanks for you're help guys.

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

I forgot to mention removing the tube from the end stand I have had to heat the stand up with a propane torch a few times if they are stuck so you don't twist the tube off. The aluminum and steel create a reaction that builds up a white corrosion between them if the motor has been sitting dry for some time.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Grovedawg,

I use one of those lead hammers with the plastic screw on faces that are green and red. as far as pressurizing the rockers, there is a passage in the head between the head and block that makes a couple 90* turns. when the rockers are pressurized it will slow the oil flow through this area and being the hottest part of the path of oil flow the oil could start to bake the oil there and block this passage. this area was the culpret of much of the engines loosing oil flow to the rockers. So I am not the biggest fan of slowing the oil flow through this area. I understand oil may be better these days and withstand more heat, but the slower it goes through there the hotter it can get. I am more to letting the oil flow through there fast and freely to keep it clean and not have the propensity to heat up and plug up like cholesterol plugging up an artery.

6 in one half a dozen in the other, just more food for thought.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Just twist them back and forth while pulling, they'll come out.  If you screw them up and still want to use them just PM me and I'll send you a couple, I have got a box full.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Do I just yank out the oil line from the last stand? I know in video you say to replace them. I just want to make sure if they're deformed I'm OK.

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie

It shows in the video.  The old way to do it was just to pinch the overflow tubes all I've done is tap one tower for a 5/16" x 1/2" bolt and shoulder it to locate the rocker shaft.  It's also a good idea to slot the oil holes on the shaft to better oil each rocker.  There has been some concern about oiling the timing chain when the overflow tube to the front has been deleted in this case I drill a small hole in the front of the block to feed a little oil to the chain.  There are some on this site that still run the over flow tube with no problems and of course that is the way Ford intended it but with these few modifications I still like to pressurize the ones I build.

This slot is cut into the tower that will be threaded for the locating bolt so air will be bled out of the shaft.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

I just realized YOU'RE Tim McMaster. Thanks so much for the videos and the response. I feel like I'm not worthy to ask you questions. I rebuilding my first Y and am scared and excited all at the same time.

Heber City, UT (15 mins outside of Park City- basically it's in the mountains)

55 Effie