You could likely peek through the timing cover/fuel pump opening to insure the damper is holding the slinger tight.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan, there  different personal preferences for torqueing bolts etc, personally i would go 20,35.45 max, rotating crank slightly on each setting to check if bearing hasnt bitten on crank, which will show any clearance problems that may occur.  I believe torque setting is 45 lb and i think you may consider replacing the rod bolts. i would recheck wrench stting. this is only a suggestion as there are other views just as satisfactory. regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Next bump in the road...

kids install the #1 and #5 pistons, go to torque the rod bolts, we used 50lbs-ft. per the James Eikman book. Took the fasteners to 30 first then came back to go to 50. One rod bolt broke and on the other rod it feels like the nut has stripped on the bolt.

This is a brand new Napa torque wrench, I assume it is accurate??

Whats happening? Would hate to install all new rod bolts, I know alot of people do but alot of engines seem to go together fine with the old ones??? 

If thats the crank you plan to run I'm sure you plan clean off the rust on the end. Just thought I'd mention it. Quick way to a seal leak. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Like those pics! Keep 'em coming.

It is held in place by the harmonic damper. I think the key way is in place so it'll fit over that 1st key.


Lawrenceville, GA

Question of the day.... our oil slinger has a keyway but it doesnt register on anything on the crank shaft, do we not have the crank gear installed far enough? Doesnt look like it can go any farther, but????

Crank, cam, timing chain in...waiting now to find a new thrust bearing as my Ebay score turned out to be the wrong bearings (.010 under, I need standard)

I will have to post a pic of the oil slinger, looks weird to me but this is my first yblock so...

I'll mark'em with a punch before removing them. Number punches if they're handy or a number of dots corresponding with the number of the main cap.


Lawrenceville, GA

I'm probably preading to the choir but when I tear an engine down I always put the main caps back on the block to keep them in the right order and on the right main. The caps settle in and like to be matched back where they came from. Unless you are line boring. You never know how long a block will set after teardown so this practice helps keep them right. Just a minor teaching point! Glad it worked out! Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire