No, the oil pan was clean with no metal inside. I removed the eight bolts on backside of converter thinking I could then pull the thing off...I'll go out now and remove the many bolts on engine side conecting it to flexplate. Thanks for setting me straight on that one. Does it matter that some of those fins are broken off, if they really have been?

Ron:

The flexplate takes the place of a flywheel.  You unbolted this converter from it.  As Charlie says, it was bolted to the crankshaft.  Those fins are not broken, they were milled off to balance the converter shell.  The starter teeth are not on the flexplate in this application.  The flexplate is a round plate, about 1/4" thick, with two "ears" riveted to it 180 degrees apart.  The ears each have 3 bolt holes to fasten it to the converter.  It is not uncommon for these ears to be broken.  If you didn't have to unbolt the converter from the flex plate, then the ears are definitely broken.  Not too uncommon on those flexplates.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The tabs with three holes each are not broken. Believe it was Kenneth that said pull the valve covers....

 one push-rod on each bank had come loose

 Now, how do I get these back where they belong and everything else back together?....PLEASE!

The one push rod should be pretty easy to get. Just slide the rocker arm out of the way, pull it out, examine it for damage, reinstall it, ensuring that it's seated in the lifter. Don't let the push rod go until you feel that it is seated. I give them a wiggle once I think I have them. If they're not seated, it sorta falls out. Also, the oil should um, for lack of a better word, cause the push rod to stick to the lifter and if you pull up slightly on the push rod you will feel the additional weight of the lifter. After a while you get used to it and don't think about these things.

If you can see the other, you can get it out with a special tool

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic39754-3-1.aspx?

If it can't be seen, then it'll probably be easier to replace that one with another. Fishing it out can be a pita.



Once you get them reinstalled, turn the engine over by hand to ensure that the valves aren't stuck.



It looks like it's only intake valves that were affected. Did it smoke a lot?


Lawrenceville, GA

Was able to pull both of them up and wrapped both with piece of wire to keep them from falling back. In morning I will do the other things you said and see if it may be OK.

It was smoking a bit and barely running. Could one being loose cause the banging noise the car would make while cold and then quiet out after warming up...all this before they must have both come off the lifters?

How old is your gas? Stale will cause valves to hang open and then bend push rods.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

I don't think intake push rods coming off will cause any banging. Maybe it will with enough of them off. I had push rods jump off a couple times on the engine that came with the truck. It would just smoke and miss. That was always only 1 push rod in each instance. An exhaust push rod coming off, however, can cause some problems.

You know, it looks like it is #3 and #7 which are affected. 7 fires right after 3 and they're on the same crank throw. Couple that with the fact that 25% of your engine is disabled, and maybe it will cause some noise. And they are on the back half of the crank which is the approximate location where you said you heard the noise.

In a way, I hope that's not the problem because you certainly didn't have to pull the engine for that. But if it is, you'll be back on the road in no time.


Lawrenceville, GA

Didn't get a chance to work on engine today but did go out and pull the two push-rods (Yes, they are #3 and #7) and they are not bent or broken. Tomorrow I'll put them back and pull plugs and turn motor over by hand to see what happens and if all the valves are working along with distributer and see if timing mark is close to tdc with #1 piston up. Does that sound about right? The gas is old in car...I took it from my boat when I had to drain the tank (couple years old)....I'll drain it and use fresh.  Will I have to wait until engine is back in car and running to see if oil is getting up to heads, isn't that what causes push-rods to come loose...no oil causing valves to stick?

You guys are great...could never have done any of this without your help

You can check that oil is getting to the rockers with the engine out. You'll need to remove the distributor and make sure the engine has oil in it. Use a 1/4" socket with an extension to engage the oil pump shaft. It will be easiest if you have a drill which will fit onto the extension. If not , a ratchet wrench, or a speed wrench will work. Turn counter-clockwise and watch for oil at the rockers. It might take a minute depending on how you're turning the shaft.



It looks like you're getting oil. I think I can see oil pooled on the edge of the valve spring retainers on the passenger side head. I can't tell on the driver side but it looks wet over there.


Lawrenceville, GA

Push rods jumping out of socket is caused by valves hanging open which is caused by stale gas. No oil to the rockers will make them squeak and wears your rocker bushing and shaft in a hurry. I have seen old engines sit so long that the rockers rusted tight to the shaft, but I don't think is your case. They don't need a whole lot of oil, but I would check it with the electric drill method. While its out of the car, make sure its secure on an engine stand and fix everything. Stuff will be a lot harder to get to once its back in the car.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas