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San Diego Ron
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
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John, I looked at that sheet metal again and only thing I could see that may possibly be wrong are the ends near where the starter fits in...are they supposed to be bent into this Y shape? 
Engine is getting anxious to get back in there

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San Diego Ron
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
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Thought for sure that could have been the problem but everything there looks good and tight. 
It would be nice if it works after getting all this stuff cleaned up

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Hoosier Hurricane
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Ron: There is some sheet metal ducting riveted inside the bellhousing. Make sure it hasn't come loose or broken. Look for signs that the fins were hitting it.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

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San Diego Ron
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
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I was just thinking the same thing...I do know the gas was old (removed from my boat that I didn't want to waste) but the banging noise was before that and stopped after engine warmed up. I would hate to put everything back and still have the noise. Could the converter be hitting against the bell housing...it does have some nicks on fins? Thought maybe the exhaust was hitting where it goes through the frame but not so. Really bad loud noise, sounds like a bucket of bolts banging around but can't tell exactly from where even being under the car with it running...sounds like from bottom rear of engine but can't rule out water pump (car never overheats). It may never run again but it looks pretty good...maybe coffee table? 


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Pete 55Tbird
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Ron Now that the engine is out of the car it will be a lot easier to fix any problems. From your rather vague description of the reason you pulled it out in the first place it is hard to know what to suggest just what to look at. Having two pushrods dropped will certainly cause a loss of power but may not be what is making the noise. Try to give a better, more complete description of just what was going on with you motor and who knows, it might get fixed the first time. Try it.
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aussiebill
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San Diego Ron (4/14/2010)
Also noticed front pulley and crankcase damper are not straight on shaft (one side about 1/8" off). Feel I am getting close but the bubble could burst.  Ron, seems like the rubber mounted harmonic damper ring has let go and the whole lot will require replacing, the damper ring should be running true to fan belt groove, look for uneven rubber sticking out of it. regards bill.
AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
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charliemccraney
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If none of the valves were binding while you were turning it, then it's probably ok. Just make sure to use fresh gas the next time you start it. You can check the lash with it cold. I think the cold spec is .019 for intake and exhaust.
Lawrenceville, GA
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San Diego Ron
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
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Reinstalled push-rods by marking threads on adjusters, backing off until could get over rods then tightened to mark. Turns over by hand and with #1 piston TDC...Timing mark is right at TDC and rotor is pointing at #1 position at distributer. Does this mean valves are all working and should I button it up or do I need to adjust all the valves (if you can do it cold)? The oil pan is off so can't check to see if heads are getting oil at this time (both heads are wet with oil). Also noticed front pulley and crankcase damper are not straight on shaft (one side about 1/8" off). Feel I am getting close but the bubble could burst.

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crenwelge
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Push rods jumping out of socket is caused by valves hanging open which is caused by stale gas. No oil to the rockers will make them squeak and wears your rocker bushing and shaft in a hurry. I have seen old engines sit so long that the rockers rusted tight to the shaft, but I don't think is your case. They don't need a whole lot of oil, but I would check it with the electric drill method. While its out of the car, make sure its secure on an engine stand and fix everything. Stuff will be a lot harder to get to once its back in the car.
Kenneth
Fredricksburg, Texas
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charliemccraney
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You can check that oil is getting to the rockers with the engine out. You'll need to remove the distributor and make sure the engine has oil in it. Use a 1/4" socket with an extension to engage the oil pump shaft. It will be easiest if you have a drill which will fit onto the extension. If not , a ratchet wrench, or a speed wrench will work. Turn counter-clockwise and watch for oil at the rockers. It might take a minute depending on how you're turning the shaft. It looks like you're getting oil. I think I can see oil pooled on the edge of the valve spring retainers on the passenger side head. I can't tell on the driver side but it looks wet over there.
Lawrenceville, GA
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