Installed fuel pressure gauge. With engine warm at idle gauge reads 4 psi.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Ted, Those are my thoughts exactly. I guess I need to get out of the 50s rut so to speak and modernize like I did the electric,brakes,steering etc on my bird.Thanks for the comment. Your input is very valuable to me and I always look for your comments on all posts. I always learn something. Thanks  Earl Dagenhart

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Earl.  I’m not much of a fan of the Holley 4150 carbs built in the late Fifties.  I typically change out the bowls to the newer bowls to make them more servicable but the factory metering on those carbs still leaves a bit to be desired.  With the newer bowls, a newer carb kit works on those particular carbs.  With so many more modern carbs being available that are essentially bolt ons, it’s just easier to replace the carb on my end than thoughly rework an original that has worn throttle shafts added to the list of problems they can have.

 

If going for a new carb, The list #1848-1 (465 cfm) Holley carb would be a suitable choice.  It’s a good all around driver on a either a dead stock or mildly hopped up Y engine.  From an appearance point of view it looks like an original carb.  Be sure to shop around though as pricing varies considerably on this carb.  Summit or Jegs will come close to having the best pricing for this carb.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I suppose no one is ever sure things work the way they are supposed to. All I can say is that the temp appears close. I went out this AM looking for a carb kit. No one in this part of the world has any. No book to look up the part .Nothing.Will have to order it . Or get a new carb. 

TED the carb is an older 4150 no adjusting screws. None of the parts places heer go back that far and none have Holley kits. Back to square one I guess. Thanks for all the information. It is priceless to me. 

55Birdman  Hickory NC

are you sure the temp gauge is right, could be percolating, engines heat up for a while once the engine is shut down. I've had the similar situation, starts great, runs great on the highway but stumbles at a stoplight. My car runs warm so I know thats a possibility. Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

The Holley #1483 carbs are listed as originally being installed on the ’58 Edsels with the 361 engine.  It is also listed as a model 4150 carb meaning the secondary metering block is standard fare for this one.  Many of the early Holley model 4150 carbs also did not have externally adjustable needle and seat assemblies which would be another way to identify them (unless someone retrofitted newer bowls on the carb of which I’m guilty of doing that).  I have no literature stating the cfm on this particular carb but if you can provide measurements of the venturies and throttle bores, then this can be determined without much effort.

With the fuel bowl inverted, measure from the end of the float to the surface directly below the float.  According to the Holley manual, the value you’re shooting for is 13/16” for this particular carb.

Another item to check while you’re on the inside of the carb is the power valve gasket.  This gasket being improperly installed or being the inappropriate gasket for the particular power valve being used can also cause problems with fuel leakage past the power valve.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

OK  I put gas in carb last night and checked it this morning and its still there. No evidence of leaking. Is this because the engine is cold and hasnt been started since Thursday or some other poltergeist? I am going to take the carb apart in either case and check everything as a safety measure and at least I will now its as it should be.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Number stamped on carb is 1483. I believe this carb is a model 4150 . 600 CFM . Do you have float settings and any other settings for this carb?

55Birdman  Hickory NC

My experience with Holleys is that they are always a tad on the rich side on idle and if you touch the trhottle when idling you are activating the biggest squirting accelerator pumps of almost any carby out there.

These carbs are generally bullet proof and set up properly are the equal of anything out there.

They only have a couple of crucial settings.

Float level, powervalve to suit engine, accelerator pump lever clearance and of course the primary air screws.

Carby shop salesman may lie to make a sale. If you number for the carby comes back as a 600cfm, then a 600 it is.

If you posted the number in your next reply we could check our parts numbers to confirm.

That is an unusual looking vacuum secondary carb with a secondary metering plate. They are usually only fitted to double pumpers. 1848 and 1850 which are the two most common vac sec carbs do not use this secondary metering plate.

A 4.5 power valve will not work on your engine unless you have a highly modified engine as the vacuum should never get that low to open the power valve under acceleration.

The 6.5 valve is the normal street valve.

The description you have given in your post suggests that the engine is flooding which usually points to float level/needle and seat problem but if the fuel is draining away quickly that will also be flooding your engine if it is leaking internally. That suggest the powervalve is faulty - they have a little spring loaded plunger which regulates fuel - this could be faulty though it would be lucky to run well at any time if it was.

I hope this, along with what has been written already gives you some ideas.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

The spring is a temp fix. No place to put it right now.

55Birdman  Hickory NC