I think you pretty well got it right Steve.It is definetly better than I had it running.Besides what the Holley manual says about positioning the throttle plate to cover most of the transfer slot I have found that instruction repeated on several of the websites I have surfed looking for info on setting up carbs and timing.I will have a better idea of what is going on when I get that tach/dwell in my hands.As was suggested awhile back I dont know what the speeds are now in neutral and drive.Just guessing.I will also be able to tell IF all cylinders are in fact firing as the RPM should drop on each one as the plug wires are pulled off.AussieBill's suggestion about the vacuum gauge is good.I have used it,Idling in neutral gives rocksteady 18.Drop into drive its about 13-14 and steady.I think if there was a misfiring cylinder the vacuum would not be steady.In drive the vacuum advance is only advancing  by about 3-5 degrees.It should be in the area of 10-13.I will be adjusting the tension on the advance and get it working better.I really think my trouble is a combination of several small adjustments.However I saw the post yesterday from another member(rods) who is experiencing the same thing with a NOT new motor.Maybe if if get mine sorted out it may help with his.Thanks for all the input guys!

  

As I have been following your posts and have been trying to do the same things to see if I can find a solution. The edelbrock is simple enough to adjust but something is just not right. I do not have all the gauges to verify things but i know if I drop idle to 850rmp the beast will stall. What are you idling at? I think you mentioned if you 2 foot it, it will keep running, same here. I apologize if i missed it but have you tried a different carb? That might help to determine if it is a carb issue or a timing issue. I was not sure if you mentioned that. That would be interesting to see what impact that would have...



My idle is at 6* on the timing but I have trouble keeping it running when I disconnect the vacuum. Does yours stay running?

1957 Thunderbird

312

6 degrees btc is toooooo low, move it up to at least 12 degrees and see if that helps. Fords yblock timing was just to low with 3 to 6 degrees depending stick or automatic.

-Gary Burnette-

You should find out what they did to it at the shop you took it to.They fixed one problem and created another by the sounds of it.

  

By the book, the idle speed in neutral should not change when the distributor vacuum advance line is disconnected when the engine is idling.  If it does change, two possibilities include the vacuum line is hooked up to a direct vacuum source or the carburetor primary side throttle blades are open too much thus exposing the ported vacuum hole within the carb’s throttle bore at idle.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hello Ted. I was reading an article about timing and carb adjustment.The author states that the vacuum advance should be at full advance with vacuum at 2in  less than the lowest engine vacuum reading which in most cases is idling in drive.If the engine vacuum reading for example is 14 in drive and the particular advance unit on the car does not get to fully vacuum advanced position until the reading is 18 the advance unit is in the midrange of advance and CAN cause timing to be unsteady at idle in drive.I dont know how to post a link to this article but if you do a search on the internet for "distributor timing and theory-part 1" it should take you to "hotrodder.com.Its a 2 part article and is one of the best I have found to explain timing and advance.If someone can post a link its well worth reading.Explains for one thing why you should be using non-ported(fulltime manifold vacuum).When I was checking the vacuum advance on mine at idle in drive it is only advancing about 3-5 with manifold vacuum applied.Should be at least 10+.I will get in there with an allen key and readjust it.

  

Here is the link. Mike

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/distributor-tuning-theory-part-1-a-59033.html

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Thank you Mike!Its well worth reading I think.

  

Too much GM junk in there don't you think?????

You guys are going to get Ted all jacked up over the "ported" vacuum again!!!!!

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Steve! If you ignore the fact that its GM the theory this guy puts forth  applies to all makes in part 1 anyway.Interesting that GM made all different advance units depending on application.I dont think I have ever heard Ted wound up.Theres a 1st time for everything.