I finally got to take my rebuild out for a drive today.Runs great.Starts quick and has lots of power.Timing is set at 12BTC.Idles great in neutral.I cant get it to idle in drive.Will almost stall.Vacuum is good at 18 and I dont think there is a vacuum leak.Holley 390 which I used last summer and worked fine.I have blown out the idle passsgaes and bleed ports.If this is a needle and seat problem why would it run fine except in drive idling?Its a stock type camshaft.Any sugestions on what to check?

  

Mark, two thoughts. Idle is too low so it fine in neutral but too low in gear. Idle mixture is too lean, would idle fine without load but would be lean when loaded. Hope this helps. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Hi Mike! I have reset both.I am thinking now maybe the secondarys are not fully closed after sitting all winter.Going to check this morning.

  

OK the secondaries are closed.Any other suggestions?

  

Pull the float bowl and metering block to see if power valve is leaking by.

John F

Ballwin, MO

Also go ahead and blow out the air bleeds,they might have some dirt in there.

55 fairlane gasser 312 /c4, 57 f100 292/c4, 52 mainline gasser 302/t10 4speed

Still no solution to my problem.I have blown out the passages,adjusted the mixture screws which both work as they are supposed to,upped the idle speed to the point where it cant be shifted into drive(too fast).I dont hear or see any vacuum leak.No excess fuel fumes indicating a leaking power valve.It just shuts off basically when I shift it into drive.It will idle in drive if I use the brake and gas to hold idle speed higher.4160 Holley.Anyone else have an idea.Runs great in all other respects-just wont idle in drive.

  

Mark,back your timing off a little and try it.I know the general consensus is that the Y likes a lot of advance,but with stock engines I've had some idle issues with as much advance as you are running.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

Mark, with engine idling check the temperature of each exhaust port if you have a temp gauge or, with a WELL insulated pair of pliers remove on plug lead at a time. Cylinder running cold or no drop in RPM with plug lead removed indicates a problem on that cylinder. Could be caused be bad plug or lead, vacuum leak (especially if more than one cylinder), one bad idle circuit or even a bad cylinder. This test just gives you more info to work with. Helped me find vacuum leaks on two different friends cars in the past two months. Also you just installed power brakes, another chance for a leak. Mike

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Thanks Mike and Paul.Good suggestions.Perhaps I have tunnel vision focusing on the carb.I will try again tommorow.Appreciate the input.